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* 4 Tell me of a land that's fair , 
With the smile of heaven there." 


Scenic and Historical 

GUIDE 

to the 

Shenandoah Valley 

A Handbook of Useful Information 
For Tourists and Students 


By 

John W. Wayland 


Price 50 Cents 
In Cloth, 75 Cents 


5 

Published by 

JOSEPH K. RUEBUSH COMPANY 
DAYTON, VIRGINIA 


For sale at all bookstores, news stands, hotels, etc. 


.S 5-W33 


Copyright by 

Joseph K. Ruebush Company 
1923 


Shenandoah Press 
Dayton, Va. 

OCT -8 ’23 

©C1A7C0513 


y - / y\ 


/ 


OUTLINE OF CONTENTS 


Part Pa:;? 

I. A Mecca for Tourists . 1 

II. “Daughter of the Stars” . 0 

III. Along the Potomac . 12 

IV. In and Around Winchester. 13 

V. From Winchester as a Center. 2 3 

VI. The Historic Valley Pike. 23 

VII. Below the Massanutten . 3 3 

VIII. Beside the Massanutten . 53 

IX. South of the Massanutten . 80 


X. Caverns of the Shenandoah Valley 80 


INDEX 












All Roads Lead to the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia 











PART ONE 


A Mecca for Tourists 

If one inquires why tourists and travelers 
come to the Shenandoah Valley every year in 
increasing thousands, the answer is found writ¬ 
ten in the land itself, in its thriving industries, 
and in its splendid history. In Saint Paul’s ca¬ 
thedral, London, it is said, on a tablet to the 
architect, Sir Christopher Wren, are these 
words: 

“If you would see his monument, look about 
you.” 

In the Shenandoah Valley, if you would know 
the reason for its fame, look about you! 

' Historic Towns 

Martinsburg, Shepherdstown, Harper’s Ferry,, 
and Charles Town, in West Virginia, are all his¬ 
toric and inviting. Farther up the Valley, in 
Virginia, are Winchester, Berryville, Strasburg, 
and Front Royal, to mention only the larger 
towns and cities; and farther up still, on either 
side of the beautiful Massanutten Mountain, 
are Woodstock, Luray, New Market, Shenan¬ 
doah, Harrisonburg, and Elkton; beyond the 
Massanutten, where the Valley broadens out 
again from Blue Ridge to Alleghanies, are Day- 
ton, Bridgewater, Mt. Crawford, Basic, Way¬ 
nesboro, and Staunton; and beyond Staunton, 
with her hills and her history, across the high 
lands that divide the waters, is Lexington, the 
“West Point of the South.” 

Battlefields 

From the days of the French and Indian War, 


2 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


the Revolution, and the Civil War, romance and 
tragedy have written their story in this beautiful 
valley, making every foot of the ground sacred 
with the blood of patriots and glorious with 
their deeds of valor. At Winchester a large part 
of Braddock’s army rendezvoused for the fatal 
march against Fort Duquesne, and there Wash- 



Washington’s Headquarters, Winchester 


ington later had his headquarters while trying 
to defend the frontiers against the infuriated sa¬ 
vages. It was from Winchester that Daniel 
Morgan, “The Thunderbolt of the Revolution,” 
led his rifle company by quick marches to join 
the minute-men at Boston. In the Civil War 
great battles were fought all around Winches¬ 
ter, Martinsburg, Shepherdstown, Harper’s 
Ferry, and Berryville. Kernstown, where Jack- 
son and Shields clashed in what Jackson de¬ 
clared to be the hardest battle of the war, is 
only three miles south of Winchester, and Cedar 
Creek, where Sheridan rallied his men after the 
guns of battle had hurried him out at dawn on 
that famous ride, is only twelve miles beyond 
Kernstown. 





SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


3 


At Strasburg, eighteen miles southwest of 
Winchester, the signal stations of Blue and 
Gray, alternating in possession, waved their 
messages down from the Massanutten heights 
to all the bloody fields—Cedar Creek, Middle- 
town, Front Royal, and Fisher’s Hill; and on 
the crest of the bluff at Strasburg the outline of 
Banks’s fort, after sixty years, stands out in bold 
relief. Farther up the Valley Pike one crosses 
Rude’s Hill and then shortly the celebrated bat¬ 
tle ground at New Market. Turning southward 
from the Pike at Harrisonburg, one soon comes 
to Cross Keys and Port Republic, and then, a 
few miles beyond, to Mt. Meridian and Pied¬ 
mont. 


Famous Men 

From end to end, through all its hundred 
miles and more, the Shenandoah Valley is rich 
in its associations with famous men. From the 
early days when young George Washington 
rode out from Greenway Court and White Post 
to compass the sylvan principality of Thomas 
Lord Fairfax, down to the recent day when 
Robert T. Lincoln came to visit the home of his 
ancestors, this land has been garlanded with il¬ 
lustrious names. Even before the days of Wash¬ 
ington, Alexander Spotswood, “The Tubal Cain 
of Virginia,” led his gallant band across the 
Blue Ridge, at Swift Run Gap, and celebrated 
the expedition by founding the Order of the 
Horseshoe. Lewis Wetsel and Daniel Boone, 
Daniel Morgan and John Sevier, James Rum- 
sey and Horatio Gates, James Wood and Jost 
Hite, John Lewis and his famous sons, the 
Zanes, the Lincolns, Peter Muhlenberg and Gab¬ 
riel Jones, all these were either native sons or 
sojourners for long seasons. In the lower Val¬ 
ley, John Esten Cooke, Philip Pendleton Cooke, 
and “Porte Crayon” wrought in fancy and in 
color; in the upper Valley, Joseph Funk and 
Sidney Lanier touched the silences into music. 


4 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


Throughout its length and breadth the Valley 
holds traditions of Stonewall Jackson and Tur¬ 
ner Ashby. Staunton was the birthplace of 
Woodrow Wilson. From Madison Hall, near 
Port Republic, came James Madison, a cousin 
of the President and the first Church of England 
bishop of Virginia. Francis Asbury and Lo¬ 
renzo Dow were well known here in the long 
ago. Henry Clay and Andrew Jackson passed 
along the historic turnpike on their journeys 
north and south; Daniel Webster and John C. 
Calhoun were occasional visitors. 

Striking Landmarks 

The water gap at Harper’s Ferry, where the 
Shenandoah joins the Potomac and the united 
torrent then bursts through the Blue Ridge, is 
one of the marvels of nature. Thomas Jefferson 
regarded it as a feature of sublimity and won¬ 
der. A greater wonder in which beauty and ma¬ 
jesty adorn the landscape for fifty miles, is the 
Massanutten Mountain, which rises abruptly out 
of the Valley at Strasburg and sinks as abruptly 
at Harrisonburg. Four miles northwest of Win¬ 
chester is Round Hill; west of the Pike, between 
Mt. Jackson and New Market, is Third Hill; 
near Dayton, four miles west of Harrisonburg, 
is Mole Hill; just back of Bridgewater is Round 
Hill (No. 2) ; west of the Pike, between Mt. 
Crawford and Burketown, is Grattan’s Hill; 
and at Staunton are the twin hills, Betsv Bell 
and Mary Gray. Other striking landmarks are 
Edinburg Gap and New Market Gap, in the 
Massanutten Mountain; Brock’s Gap, in the Al- 
leghanies back of Timberville and Broadway; 
Peaked Mountain, as seen from Elkton and Mc- 
Gaheysville; Buffalo Gap and Mount Elliott, 
west of Staunton; and House Mountain, west of 
Lexington. 

’ Beautiful Views 

At certain places in the Valley, by reason of 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


5 


elevation and outlook, the observer enjoys un¬ 
usual advantages for extended view. From the 
hills along Cedar Creek, on the old battlefield, 
the outlook in every direction is magnificent. 
From the bridge across the Shenandoah, be¬ 
tween Front Royal and Riverton, one beholds 
a scene of surpassing loveliness. From Fisher’s 
Hill, from the old Star Fort at Winchester, from 
the Rumsey monument at Shepherdstown, and 
from Bolivar Heights, above Harper’s Ferry, 
the panoramas are entrancing. The top of the 
Massanutten opposite Woodstock affords a mar¬ 
velous sight of the Shenandoah River far be¬ 
low, winding back and forth in a maze of gigan¬ 
tic loops. The summit of Rude’s Hill, midway 
between Mt. Jackson and New Market, affords 
the tourist on a fair day what is perhaps the 
most beautiful view in the whole Valley. From 
Pence’s Hill, between Edinburg and Hawkins- 
town, the whole Massanutten range, in its entire 
length of fifty miles, may be seen. 

The New Market Gap, as one crosses toward 
Luray, gives a splendid prospect of the Valley 
north and west. The traveler should pause a 
moment there, on the old trail of Jackson’s “foot 
cavalry,” and enjoy the scenes of peace and 
plenty that now abound. Skyland, in the Blue 
Ridge, opposite Luray, and Swift Run Gap, op¬ 
posite Elkton, lift the vision to exalted heights. 
In leaving the Valley from Staunton and Way¬ 
nesboro, going toward Charlottesville, one cros¬ 
ses the Blue Ridge at Afton, and thereby looks 
down upon a glorious landscape from the gates 
of Swananoa. In going west from Staunton, 
to McDowell and Monterey, the traveler crosses 
one mountain after another, and is delighted 
with a succession of marvelous scenes from the 
rugged heights. 

Natural Curiosities and Wonders 

The water gap at Harper’s Ferry, as already 
noted, ranks high as a natural wonder. So do 


6 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


the abrupt promontories of the Massanutten 
Mountain, at Strasburg and Harrisonburg, re¬ 
spectively. Powell’s Fort, a long narrow valley 
within the Massanutten range at the northeast 
end, and the Kettle, a deep crater-like abyss 
at the southwest end, will surprise and delight 
the visitor. Narrow Passage, midway between 
Woodstock and Edinburg, is a bridge of rock 
that divides two streams. Cedar Cliff Falls, in 
the Blue Ridge near Elkton, may be seen in a 
graceful curve, from long distances out in the 
Valley, at certain seasons of the year. Brock’s 
Gap and Buffalo Gap, already mentioned, and 
Tide Spring, near Brock’s Gap, are well worth a 
leisure hour. 



Cedar Cliff Falls 







SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


r 


But with the possible exception of the re¬ 
nowned Natural Bridge, beyond Lexington, the 
greatest wonders of the Shenandoah Valley are 
the marvelous limestone caverns that honey¬ 
comb the hills for miles of tortuous ways. These 
labyrinths of a subterranean fairyland must be 
seen to be appreciated. They are a perennial 
delight to thousands of visitors all the year 
round. Those who have seen them a dozen times 
are all the more eager to see them again. Wey- 
er’s Cave and the Cave of the Fountains (at 
Grottoes), Massanetta Cave (near Keezeltown), 
Luray Cave, the Endless Caverns (near New 
Market), the Caverns of the Shenandoah (near 
Mt. Jackson), and Crystal Caverns (near Stras- 
burg), are among the wonders of the world. 
They will be referred to again in their proper 
connections in subsequent pages of this guide. 



The Shenandoah Valley Mountains and Rivers. Scale; 1 in.—22 miles. 




PART TWO 


“DAUGHTER OF THE STARS” 

“Shenandoah! Crystal water! 

All majestic roiling by; 

Lovely river, queenly daughter— 
Daughter of the stars on high !” 


“Shenandoah” is one of the very few Indian 
names that have been preserved in Northern 
Virginia. It means, according to tradition, 
“Daughter of the Stars,” or “Daughter of the 
Sky”; and it was first applied, we may believe, 
to the river whose sparkling waters reflect at 
once the light of twinkling stars and the blue 
of heaven’s canopy; but for many years past the 
Valley as well as the river has borne the beau¬ 
tiful name, “Shenandoah.” 

Bounded on the east by the undulating Blue 
Ridge and on the west by the towering Alie- 
ghanies, the Shenandoah Valley stretches south- 
westward from the Potomac for more than a 
hundred miles, in a width that varies from 
twenty to thirty miles. Between Staunton and 
Lexington the waters divide, some flushing the 
head springs of the Shenandoah, others hasten¬ 
ing in the opposite direction to swell the cur¬ 
rents of the James. A dozen great counties, 
served by a score of cities and busy towns, cen¬ 
ters of trade and hospitable hosts to visitors, 
comprise the spacious areas of the Valley and 
contribute a liberal measure of prosperity to the 
State and Nation. 

If one could view the Shenandoah Valley 
from one of the stars above it, the general out¬ 
line might remind the observer of the Circus 
Maximus in ancient Rome. On either side the 



10 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


mountains rise in tiers, while almost in the cen¬ 
ter, for fifty miles, the Massanutten divides the 
tracks of quest and contest like a gigantic spina. 

Gateways into the Valley 

When Nature carved this valley from the sur¬ 
rounding hills and kissed its face into smiling 
beauty, she hid it away behind the mountain 
walls, as if fearing for it the gaze of an eager 
world; but she at the same time left curtained 
pathways into the sylvan bowers which the eyes 
of love might find; and so in time came heroes 
bold—red men from the wilderness, white men 
from over the seas and from over the moun¬ 
tains; and the beauty that long had slept peace¬ 
ful and undreaming awoke—not to fear, but to 
joy and fuller life. The pathways were smooth¬ 
ed and broadened, and the leafy twig-laced cur¬ 
tains were drawn aside. 

As the waters flow, the Shenandoah Valley 
opens toward the northeast, rolling down in 
limestone plains to the Potomac. Here, then, 
are the gateways that are widest open. From 
Frederick, Maryland, a short route enters by 
way of Harper's Ferry; a longer one crosses 
historic South Mountain to Hagerstown and 
comes in to Martinsburg by way of Williams¬ 
port and Falling Waters. Before reaching Hag¬ 
erstown one may turn southward at Boonesboro, 
cross Antietam battlefields, and enter the Val¬ 
ley at Shepherdstown. By many, this middle 
route is preferred. At Shepherdstown one cros¬ 
ses the Potomac at Horseshoe Bend, where Rum- 
sey in 1787 gave proof of his steamboat; and 
on the high bluff above the river towers a splen¬ 
did monument to the inventor. 

At several places along the Blue Ridge are 
gaps through which roads enter the Valley from 
the east side. The most familiar ones are the 
following: 

(1) From Washington, Leesburg, and Blue- 
mont, coming in to Berryville and Winchester; 



SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


11 


(2) From Warrenton and Amissville, com¬ 
ing in to Front Royal and Strasburg; 

(3) From Culpeper and Sperryville, coming 
in to Front Royal and Luray; 

(4) From Gordonsville and Stanardsville, 
through Swift Run Gap to Elkton and Harrison¬ 
burg ; 

(5) From Charlottesville and Crozet, by 
Rockfish Gap, to Waynesboro and Staunton. 

On the western side of the Valley the ways 
of approach are more difficult; but from Berke¬ 
ley Springs and Capon Springs roads lead in to 
Winchester and Strasburg; from Moorefield and 
Franklin one may cross to Woodstock, Broad¬ 
way, and Harrisonburg; from Monterey and Mc¬ 
Dowell good roads lead in to Staunton; and 
from Hot Springs and Warm Springs one may 
come easily down through Panther Gap, past 
Goshen, Craigsville, Augusta Springs, and 
through Buffalo Gap to Staunton. 

From Roanoke, Lynchburg, the Natural 
Bridge, and Lexington the tourist may come 
down into the Valley by easy routes, through 
beautiful scenery. 

The main trail through the Valley is the his¬ 
toric Valley Turnpike, lying on the west side of 
the Massanutten Mountain; but good roads are 
being rapidly built in all directions. Nearly 
every place of interest to the tourist and the 
student is easily accessible by automobile or rail¬ 
way. Hotels in the larger towns and wayside 
inns at convenient intervals on all the main 
thoroughfares make travel easy and free from 
care. 


PART THREE 


Harper’s Ferry 

This historic old town lies on the point of 
land between the Shenandoah and the Potomac, 
where they unite and burst through the moun¬ 
tains. In its situation and quaint character.it 
might easily be mistaken for one of the pic¬ 
turesque villages of the Old World. It climbs 
up the steep slopes of Bolivar Heights, West 
Virginia, and looks across the Shenandoah upon 
the wooded Loudoun Heights in Virginia and 
across the Potomac upon the answering heights 
in Maryland. 

At Harper’s Ferry the United States govern¬ 
ment had a rifle factory and an arsenal for 
many years prior to the Civil War; and it was 
probably because of this that John Brown chose 
Harper’s Ferry as a strategic point for launch¬ 
ing his war for freedom of the slaves. It was 
in October, 1859, that the famous raid took 
place. The site of the old engine house in which 
he made his last stand is conspicuously marked. 
Near by are tablets that give information con¬ 
cerning the important military actions that oc¬ 
curred at Harper’s Ferry in the Civil War. 

Among the places of interest that the stranger 
should visit at Harper’s Ferry are the old Ca¬ 
tholic Church on the hill and Jefferson’s Rock. 

Charles Town 

Charles Town, the county seat of Jefferson 
County, is only six miles southwest of Harper’s 
Ferry, by a good road. It was at Charles Town 
that John Brown, with several of his confede¬ 
rates, was imprisoned, tried and executed. The 
-old court house remains much as it was in 1859. 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


13 


Charles Town dispenses hospitality in the 
midst of a beautiful farming region, and on 
every hand, within easy reach, are old homes of 
eminent men and women. General Charles Lee, 
General William Darke, and General Horatio 
Gates were only a few of those well known to 
fame who lived long in the vicinity. Only a 
short distance outside of Charles Town is Hare- 
wood, where the “Father of the Constitution” 
married the woman who is now so well known 
and loved as “Dolly Madison.” St. Hilda’s Hall, 
an excellent school for young women, is at 
Charles Town. 

From Charles Town good roads lead on to 
Berryville and Winchester. 


Shepherdstown 

Shepherdstown, near the old Packhorse Ford 
where so many early settlers, following the trail 
of the Indians, crossed the Potomac into the 
Valley, is one of the oldest towns in northern 
Virginia. Mrs. Danske Dandridge, long a resi¬ 
dent of the place, and an author of distinction 
in both poetry and prose, found records which 
show that white people had a settlement here 
as early as 1720—perhaps earlier. The first 
name of the town was Mecklenburg, so called 
by the German pioneers who composed the ma¬ 
jority of the founders. 

In 1790 the patriotic citizens of Shepherds¬ 
town and vicinity subscribed $25,000 and offer¬ 
ed it together with 475 acres of land overlook¬ 
ing the Potomac to the Federal Government as 
inducements to locate the National Capital at 
Mecklenburg. 

The towering monument on the river bank at 
Horseshoe Bend commemorates the achieve¬ 
ments of “Crazy Rumsey,” who ran his steam¬ 
boat there against the current on a set day in 
December, 1787, in the presence of a great 


C 


14 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


crowd of witnesses, among them Major Henry 
Bedinger, Colonel Joseph Swearingen, General 



Rumsey Monument, Shepherdstown. 


William Darke, Colonel Philip Pendleton, and 
General Horatio Gates. “Rumsey’s Walk” is 
only a short distance up the river bank from 
the monument. 

Shepherd College, at Shepherdstown, is an 
educational institution of high rank and envi¬ 
able record. Dr. Thomas C. Miller and Hon. H. 
L. Snyder are two well known residents of 
Shepherdstown who have done much to make 
its history accessible to the public. 

Martinsburg 

Martinsburg, the county seat of Berkeley 
County, West Virginia, and a railroad center of 
importance, is directly on the automobile route 
between Hagerstown and Winchester, 18 miles 
from the former, 22 miles from the latter. Just 
when the first settlement was made at this place 



SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


15 


has not been ascertained, but the town here was 
established by law in October, 1778, and named 
after Colonel T. B. Martin, one of the large 
landowners of the vicinity. Adam Stephen at 
that time had laid off 130 acres into streets and 
lots and the court house of Berkeley county 
was already erected. 

It is claimed by some that the first church 
built west of the Blue Ridge was the one on Tus- 
carora Creek, about two miles from Martins- 
burg. 

The following anecdote is related, in Aler’s 
History of Martinsburg, of three Revolutionary 
generals, well known to fame, who used to live 
in the lower Valley, between Martinsburg and 
Charles Town. 

“The three.were in the habit of fre¬ 

quently meeting (at the home of Lee) to crack 
jokes, drink wine, and compare notes of their 
army experience. Upon one occasion, after a 
lengthy sitting and free indulgence in the spirits, 
which were ardent, General Lee obtained the 
floor and remarked : ‘The County of Berkley is 
indeed to be congratulated. She can claim as 
citizens three noted Major Generals of the revo¬ 
lutionary war. You, Stephen, distinguished your¬ 
self by getting drunk when you should have re¬ 
mained sober, and were cashiered for advancing 
when you should have been retreating, while 
your humble servant covered himself with glory 
and laurels and was cashiered for retreating 
when he should have been advancing.’ ” 

On the road between Martinsburg and Win¬ 
chester is the village of Bunker Hill, on a branch 
of the Opequon Creek. There, in 1726, a Welsh¬ 
man, Morgan Morgan, settled. By many he is 
regarded as the pioneer of all this region. At 
any rate, in 1923 the legislature of West Vir¬ 
ginia provided $5,000 for erecting a monument 
at Bunker Hill in his honor. 



PART FOUR 


Berryville 

Berryville was anciently known as “Battle- 
town, ” for the reason, it is said, that Daniel 
Morgan, when a young man, had so many fights 
there with the young men of the village. Un¬ 
wittingly, they were putting him in training to 
be the “Thunderbolt of the Revolution.” 

Berryville is on the highway between Wash¬ 
ington, Alexandria, and Leesburg, on the east, 
and Winchester on the west, which highway 
crosses the Blue Ridge at Bluemont and Mt. 
Weather. The town lies in a beautiful farm 
region, 11 miles from Winchester and an equal 
distance from Bluemont. It is the county seat 
of Clarke County, which commemorates in its 
name General George Rogers Clark, “The Han¬ 
nibal of the West.” Charles Town, the county 



“The Briars,” Home of John Esten Cooke, near 
Berryville and Winchester 







SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


17 


seat of Jefferson County, West Virginia, is 13 
miles northeast. 

Among the historic homes in the neighbor¬ 
hood of Berryville are the following: Audley 
Court; Soldier’s Rest and Saratoga, two resi¬ 
dences in days past of General Daniel Morgan; 
and The Briars, long the home of John Esten 
Cooke, the well known novelist and poet. Ten 
miles southwest of Berryville are White Post 
and Greenway Court, long the frontier home of 
Thomas Lord Fairfax, and the headquarters of 
Washington while he was surveyor for Fairfax. 

Millwood is seven miles southwest of Berry¬ 
ville. About midway is Old Chapel, built in 
1783, said to be the oldest Episcopal church 
west of the Blue Ridge. 

All Roads Lead to Winchester 

For nearly two hundred years Winchester 
(old Frederick Town) has been a center of life, 
war, trade, and travel for the white people of 
Northern Virginia. In earlier days it was a 
favorite hunting ground and battle ground of 
the Indians. When the first white settlers and 
explorers came into the lower Valley they found 
Indian wigwams around Shawnee Spring: and 
the tradition still lingers that “he who drinks 
the waters of Shawnee Spring will come back 
again.” Certainly the stranger who visits Win¬ 
chester and imbibes the spirit of the old town 
will wish to return. The busy city of 7,000 has 
not lost the arts of liberal hospitality and gen¬ 
tle entertainment. 

In 1732, or soon thereafter, white men began 
to build their cabins near Shawnee Spring, 
which may still be found, clear and flowing, on 
the southern border of the city, just east of 
the B. & O. railway track. In 1752 Winchester 
was established a town by law, the name being 
borrowed from Winchester in England, because 
of a more than fancied resemblance in natural 
surroundings. In 1755 a considerable part of 


18 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


General Braddock’s ill-fated army was assem¬ 
bled at Winchester, on its laborious march 
against Fort Duquesne; and one of the principal 
streets of the town still bears the name of Brad- 
dock. 

It may be observed in this connection that the 
street names of Winchester are a history in 
themselves: Braddock, Amherst, Cameron, 
Cork, Piccadilly, Boscawen, Wolfe, Loudoun, 
Washington, etc. 

In the years immediately following the defeat 
of Braddock, Washington had his headquarters 
at Winchester, being charged with the arduous 
task of defending the frontier settlements 
against the Indians. It was at this time that 
he constructed, on an elaborate plan, Fort Lou¬ 
doun, named in honor of the Earl of Loudoun, 
who was then in command of the English forces 
in the colonies. The deep well of the fort, 
blasted down through the solid rock, and other 
relics of the stronghold still remain, and the site 
is now occupied by Fort Loudoun Seminary. At 
the foot of the hill is the home of the Sarah 
Zane Fire Company. 

Washington’s headquarters, occupied while 
Fort Loudoun was in process of construction, 
may readily be found at the corner of Cork and 
Braddock Street. The old building is well pre¬ 
served and is now used as a museum. The ad¬ 
jacent lawn is marked with cannon of the olden 
days. 


Old Taylor Hotel 

On Main Street of Winchester, between 
Water and Piccadilly, is the old Taylor Hotel, 
the lower story of which is now used for store 
rooms. In this spacious hotel were entertained 
in the days of yore many famous guests, among 
them Henry Clay in 1847, Daniel Webster in 
1851, and President McKinley in 1900. 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


19 



Old Taylor Hotel, Winchester 


During the Civil War, McKinley, an officer 
in the Union army, was made a Mason in Win¬ 
chester. The old house in which the initiation 
took place may be found on the east side of 
Main Street, not far from the old Taylor Hotel. 
While President, McKinley and his wife visited 
Winchester, showing particular interest in the 
Masonic temple. 


Cemeteries 

On Amherst Street, near Washington, and 
not far from the Taylor Hotel, is the house in 
which General Daniel Morgan died, July 6, 
1802. His grave may be found in the beautiful 
Mt. Hebron Cemetery, at the eastern side of the 
town. Nearby is the ivy-covered wall of an old 
Lutheran Church and the grave of Rev. Chris¬ 
tian Streit, the first minister of the Evangelical 
Lutheran Church born in America. 






20. 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 



Grave of Gen. Daniel Morgan, Winchester 


Adjacent to Mt. Hebron Cemetery is Stone¬ 
wall Confederate Cemetery. In this may be 
found the massive stone marking the graves of 
“The Brothers Ashby.” Not far away is the 
towering marble shaft beneath which lie the 
bodies of 829 soldiers “whose names are known 
to none, but whose deeds are known to all.” 

Not far away is the Federal Military Ceme¬ 
tery, in which more than 4,000 boys who wore 
the Blue, known and unknown, lie sleeping. 
They fell at Kernstown, at Harper’s Ferry, Mar- 
tinsburg, Cedar Creek, Winchester, and in 
Banks’s retreat before Jackson in the spring of 
1862. 


Star Fort 

On all the hills around Winchester may be 
traced the outlines of forts and trenches. Dur¬ 
ing the Civil War it is said that the town chang¬ 
ed hands, from Gray to Blue and back again, 
72 times: four times on one notable day. 

One of the forts best preserved is Star Fort, 








SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


21 


which is located on a commanding hill about a 
mile north of the city. It may be reached easily 
by driving out the North Frederick Turnpike. 



Star Fort, Near Winchester. A Relic of the 

Civil War. 


The high earthen banks of the fort are almost 
intact, and the eminence commands a magnifi- 
cient view in all directions. From it may be seen 
Round Hill, Apple Pie Ridge, and other land¬ 
marks west; the broad, fertile plains stretching 
towards the Potomac on the north and the Blue 
Ridge on the east; and the city of Winchester, 
nestling among the farm fields and apple or¬ 
chards, close at hand southward. 

On June 13, 1863, General Milroy was dis¬ 
lodged from Star Fort by General Ewell, who 
was leading Lee’s advance corps in the second 
invasion of the North. In this campaign, which 
culminated at Gettysburg on July 1, 2, 3, 1863, 
most of Lee’s army passed northward through 
Winchester, having crossed the Shenandoah 





22 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


River at Front Royal and Riverton, in a direct 
route from Culpeper and Rappahannock. 

From Star Fort one may also get a panoramic 
view of the battlefield of Opequon, where Sheri¬ 
dan overpowered Early in the great conflict of 
September 19, 1864. This field is widely ex¬ 
tended toward the east, stretching along the 
Opequon Creek and the northwestern edge of 
Clarke County. 

Quaker Meeting Houses 

In the city of Winchester is a well kept meet¬ 
ing house of the Friends, or Quakers. About 
five miles northeast of the city, near the village 
of Clearbrook, is the old Hopewell Meeting 
House, a picturesque stone building, well pre¬ 
served. Hopewell monthly meeting was estab¬ 
lished in 1744, under authority of the Chester, 
Pa., quarterly meeting. 



Hopewell Quaker Meeting House, Near 

Winchester 




SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


23 


Among the early Quaker settlers in and 
around Winchester were Alexander Ross, Josiah 
Ballenger, James Wright, Evan Thomas, the 
Bransons, the Luptons, and the Barretts. 

Other places in Winchester that the visitor 
should see are Glen Burnie, the Cannon-Ball 
House, Stonewall Jackson’s headquarters, and 
Sheridan’s headquarters. The last is just across 
Piccadilly Street from the Handley Library. 
This is the house from which Sheridan started 
on his famous ride towards Cedar Creek on the 
morning of October 19, 1864. 

The Handley Schools, endowed by Judge 
John Handley, are attracting wide attention. 
The splendid new high school building, at the 
west side of the city, should be inspected by 
every visitor. Shenandoah Valley Academy, a 
high class school for boys, is located in Win¬ 
chester. 

If the stranger who visits Winchester and vi¬ 
cinity is fortunate enough to secure the services 
of Professor Frank Crawford, whose residence 
is on Washington Street at Amherst, as a guide, 
his stay will be rendered all the more interest¬ 
ing and profitable. 


PART FIVE 


From Winchester as a Center 

From Winchester good roads lead out in all 
directions, and the tourist will find the city a 
convenient center from which to visit many of 
the places of interest in the adjacent commu¬ 
nities. 

Hackwood Park Farm lies about two and a 
half miles north of the city, on the Red Bud 
road. General John Smith located there in 
1772. Traditions of Washington cluster about 
the place. One of the buildings was used as a 
hospital by Union troops during the battle of 
Opequon, September 19, 1864 ; and a monument 
marks the spot on the farm where a number of 
Vermont soldiers were killed. 

Berryville and Environs 

Berryville, the county seat of Clark County, is 
11 miles east of Winchester, and is rich in the 
deeds of fruitful years. Near Berryville is Sol¬ 
dier’s Rest, the home that Daniel Morgan built 
for himself and his young wife, Abigail Bailey, 
about the year 1760. 

Millwood is 10 miles southeast of Winches¬ 
ter. It is located on land formerly owned by 
Colonel Nathaniel Burwell of Carter Hall, who 
built several mills in the neighborhood. The 
upper mill in Millwood was constructed for 
Colonel . Burwell by General Daniel Morgan 
with the skilled workmen among the Hes¬ 
sian prisoners taken with Burgovne. About 
a mile and a half from the village is a spacious 
mansion which these same prisoners built for 
Morgan himself, and which by him was named 
“Saratoga” in memory of the great victory in 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


25 


1777, to which he and his Valley riflemen had 
so materially contributed. 

Old Chapel, a stone edifice dating from 1783, 
stands about midway between Millwood and 
Berryville, and is a mecca of many pilgrimages. 
It took the place of Cunningham’s Chapel, a 
structure of logs, that must have been erected 
prior to 1751. On a horizontal slab of granite, 
the oldest marker in the graveyard at Old 
Chapel, is the following inscription: 

“Here lies the body of Winnifred, the wife of 
Major Marquis Calmes. They were joined in 
wedlock 26 years and had six children. She 
was a loving, virtuous and industrious wife, a 
tender mother and kind mistress. She departed 
this life Oct. 6th, Anno Domini 1751.” 

Marquis Calmes was a Huguenot nobleman, 
prominent in the affairs of old Frederick Coun¬ 
ty. He was a vestryman of Cunningham 
Chapel. 

At Old Chapel is the grave of John Esten 
Cooke, the popular romancer of Civil War days; 
and inside the building is a tablet to the memory 
of Bishop William Meade, distinguished church¬ 
man and author, who was for many years assis¬ 
tant rector and rector of the chapel. 


White Post and Greenway Court 

White Post is 11 miles southwest of Winches¬ 
ter, and Greenway Court is one mile farther. 

About the time that young George Washing¬ 
ton was engaged as an explorer and a land sur¬ 
veyor by Lord Fairfax, the latter established 
himself in the wilderness of his wide domain at 
the place which has ever since been famous as 
Greenway Court. There the eccentric nobleman 
spent the greater part of thirty-two years, and 
there he died soon after the surrender of Corn¬ 
wallis at Yorktown; but his grave is in Win¬ 
chester. 


26 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 



Washington’s Office, Greenway Court 


A mile northeast of Greenway Court two long 
roads crossed. One ran from Battletown 
(Berryville) to Front Royal. It passed (and it 
still passes) Greenway Court. The other came 
up from old Alexandria, fell into the long Val¬ 
ley trail some eight miles above Winchester, at 
Newtown (now Stephens City), and passed 
thence on up the Valley, crossed the head 
waters of the James, and so on to Tennessee. 

Where the two roads crossed in the forest, 
a mile from his home, Lord Fairfax set up a 
post to guide strangers to his dwelling. He 
probably had it white-washed. At any rate, it 
became “White Post,” and it is White Post still. 
A great white post, surmounted by a lantern, 
still stands in the crossing of the roads. The 
village of White Post is loyal to its charge. It 
cannot prove recreant to the genesis of its pame. 










SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


27 



White Post 


Fact and fiction have given Greenway Court 
a shining place in our literature. For genera¬ 
tions it has been a name to conjure with. The 
wide mansion of the flat roof, familiar in old 
pictures, has disappeared, but two or three of 
the old structures are still intact; and among 
them is the old stone “Office,” in which tradition 
says the young surveyor Washington (and 
doubtless his Lordship too) did business with 
those who, in those early days, were desirous 
of becoming landlords in the Northern Neck. 

Tradition also has it, and perhaps history 
too, that General Braddock and his army, on 
their way up country from Alexandria, were en¬ 
tertained for a season at Greenway Court. 

At White Post is the interesting Meade Mem¬ 
orial Chapel, in which are preserved the devo¬ 
tion and good deeds of Bishop William Meade 
and other members of the family. 












PART SIX 


The Historic Valley Pike 

“Ninety miles and more it stretches 
Up the Valley, towards the south; 

Firm it is to wheel and hoof-beat, 

Firm it holds in flood and drouth; 

And it links the towns and cities, 

Jewels on a silver chain, 

Shining in their emerald settings, 

In the broad and fertile plain.” 

The historic Valley Pike, 93 miles long, leads 
from Winchester to Staunton, and is the main 
thoroughfare today for automobiles as it was in 
antebellum days for stage coaches and during 
the Civil War for the armies of Blue and Gray. 
It is part of the New York-Atlanta Highway, 
and from New Market southward it is incor¬ 
porated in the Lee Highway, now under con¬ 
struction, from Washington into the Southwest. 

It passes through the towns of Stephens City, 
Middletown, Strasburg, Tom’s Brook, Maurer- 
town, Woodstock, Edinburg, Mt. Jackson, New 
Market, Lacey Spring, Harrisonburg, Mt. Craw¬ 
ford, Burketown, Mt. Sidney, and Verona, and 
across the battlefields of Newtown, Middletown, 
Cedar Creek, Fisher’s Hill, Tom’s Brook, Rude’s 
Hill, and New Market; and it passes near the 
fatal fields of Kernstown, Lacey Spring, Cross 
Keys, Port Republic, Mt. Meridian, and Pied¬ 
mont. Indeed, the whole historic way was 
fought over repeatedly, by larger or smaller 
companies, in the days of ’61 to ’65. If earth 
and stones could speak, every mile would tell its 
story. At frequent intervals between Winches¬ 
ter and New Market may be seen monuments in 
bronze and granite beside the way. 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


29 ’ 


The first ten or a dozen miles of the Pike, 
south of Winchester, were immortalized in Oc¬ 
tober, 1864, by Phil Sheridan and his black 
horse, and later by Tom Read in his stirring* 
poem commemorating the famous ride. The 
forty-odd miles between Staunton and New 
Market, in May of the same year, resounded to 
the rhythmic tramp of the V. M. I. cadets on 
their way to death and glory. 

“Swiftly flows the little river, 

Beauteous ‘Daughter of the Stars,’ 

Past the fields once stained and crimson— 
Here the ‘Stripes’ and there the ‘Bars’— 
Singing e’er the matchless story, 

Singing e’er from days of yore, 

Of the lads and of their glory— 

Month of May, and Sixty-four.” 

The experienced driver will note with appre¬ 
ciation the fine grading of the Valley Pike. For 
all its great length through a hilly country there 
are very few steep grades; and for miles at a 
time the course runs straight as an arrow, and 
almost level, along the ridges or through the 
vales. At many places it can be seen for a mile 
or two ahead. 

Some one has said that the buffaloes were the 
first great road engineers of America. The buff¬ 
aloes doubtless tracked out long stretches of the 
Valley Pike, and the Indians used the same long 
trails. The earliest explorers and settlers of the 
white people widened these trails until wagons 
could run in them. In pioneer times this long 
trail up the Shenandoah Valley was part of the 
road to Cumberland Gap and Kentucky, from 
Pennsylvania, Maryland, and New York, as well 
as to North Carolina, Tennessee, and Georgia. 
The Lincolns, the Boones, and John Sevier were 
only a few of the many thousands who went this 
way in the long ago. In later days when stage 
coaches ran regularly on it, through the long, 
dark nights as well as through the toilsome 



30 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


days, Henry Clay, Andrew Jackson, Madame 
Jerome Bonaparte, and Claude Crozet were 
among the distinguished personages who rode 
in the rocking chariots and stopped at the 
simple inns along the route. 

Paying Toll 

Between 1835 and 1840 the road between 
Winchester and Staunton was made a turnpike 
at a cost of nearly half a million dollars, three- 
fifths of the amount being subscribed in stock by 
the farmers of the Valley, the other two-fifths 
being furnished by the state. For three-quar¬ 
ters of a century tolls were collected from all 
users of the road—so many cents for a wagon, 
so much for a buggy, two or three cents for a 
horse and rider—at each of the nineteen gates 
between Winchester and Staunton. To be more 
exact, there were only eighteen and a half of 
the toll gates. The distance between two gates 
was fixed at five miles; and as the miles gave 
out after the eighteenth full gate, the last one 
just outside of Staunton was only half a gate— 
that is, it collected only half tolls. 

The only way one could travel on the old 
Turnpike scot free was to walk or to wait until 
midnight, when the toll keepers went to bed. 
For the rest of the night the gates were left 
open. We should say ‘‘up.” The gates were 
long poles balanced across the road like the old- 
fashioned well sweeps, and could be pulled 
down quickly and easily by the keeper whose 
box jutted hard on the roadside. There, winter 
and summer, day in and day out, he (more of¬ 
ten “she”) would sit “at the receipt of custom.” 
Some of the toll-takers had contrivances like 
little skillets, with long handles, which they 
would poke out of the window of the toll house, 
or into the car of the tourist, for the jingle of 
the shekel. 

But at midnight of August 31, 1918, some¬ 
thing happened. Lights went out in the toll 



SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


31 


houses and the keepers went to bed without set¬ 
ting their alarm clocks. “No tolls tomorrow!” 

Toll Gates Removed 

That brief exclamation told the story. The 
state had taken over the road and taken off the 
gates! For many it was a glad day, for a few 
it was a sad one. Since that day tourists have 
not had to honk their horns and slow down 
every five miles to toss out the change. Now, 
barring the towns, most of which enforce strict¬ 
ly the ordinances against high speed, the way¬ 
farer may roar along for miles at a time, only 
looking at the scenery and worrying about a 
blow-out that he thinks he may have. The na¬ 
tives are generally courteous to visitors. Most 
of them are disposed to give a gentleman half 
the road and a hog a little more. 

At frequent intervals are garages for mend¬ 
ing blow-outs and tanks for supplying gasoline; 
and one does not have to wait long between the 
signs which say, “Meals and Lodging Here for 
Tourists. ” 



Picturesque Cedar Creek 







32 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


For 14 miles out of Winchester, southwest- 
ward, to the bridge across the picturesque 
Cedar Creek, one rides through the great old 
county of Frederick. Then, from Cedar Creek 
on to New Market, and a mile beyond, the way 
leads through the green fields of Shenandoah, 
36 miles. Next, the route crosses the great 
county of Rockingham, 30 miles wide, as the 
Pike goes. The southwest border is between 
Mt. Crawford and Burketown, just opposite the 
wooded cone on the west, Grattan’s Hill. Then 
for the 13 remaining miles to Staunton, one 
rides through the prosperous farms of Augusta, 
which, with its 1006 square miles, is the second 
largest county of Virginia. 


Wayside Waters 

The tourist who loves sparkling waters will 
find many scenes to delight his eye along the 
way from Winchester to Staunton. 

Six miles out from Winchester is the historic 
Opequon Creek. The road crosses it at Spring- 
dale. Fourteen miles out of the city the pike 
turns sharply down the hill to the right and 
leaps, by means of an iron bridge, across Cedar 
Creek. A more beautiful stream could hardly 
be found. Between Strasburg and Fisher’s Hill 
the Pike swings in a long curve at the foot of 
a limestone bluff and almost dips into the spark¬ 
ling waters of the Shenandoah River (North 
Branch). At Tom’s Brook and Pugh’s Run the 
way sweeps over clear little streams that ripple 
in gravelly beds. 

At Narrow Passage, three miles southwest of 
Woodstock, the Shenandoah River is seen down 
a high bank to the east, while Narrow Passage 
Creek comes rushing down a deep gorge from 
the west, as if determined to break through the 
rock wall that has held it back from the river so 
long. For a natural curiosity of wondrous 
beauty, Narrow Passage can hardly be matched. 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


33 


At Edinburg- the way crosses the blue waters of 
Stony Creek, and at Red Banks, a few miles 
farther on, one comes out again beside the beau¬ 
tiful Shenandoah. At Mt. Jackson the Pike 
slopes down a hill and bridges Mill Creek, and 
in another mile it crosses the Shenandoah at the 
side of a steep bluff that overlooks Meems’ Bot¬ 
toms. 

Mounting Rude’s Hill, one may look far down 
to the right and see the Shenandoah, winding 
among the willows—the last glimpse of the 
North Branch, from the Pike, as one goes south.. 
The stream that circles Meems’ Bottoms and 
Rude’s Hill on the east side is Smith’s Creek. 

At Lacey Spring, ten miles above New Mar¬ 
ket, one may look down from the Pike almost 
into the great spring that leaps out of the bluff 
in volume strong enough to run a flour mill. 
Thousands of soldiers, Blue and Gray, long re¬ 
membered Lacey Spring with a grateful thought 
of cold, clear water. This is one of the sources 
of Smith’s Creek. 

At Mt. Crawford is another “Narrow Pas¬ 
sage,” with Cook’s Creek on the east side and 
the river on the west side of the road. The 
creek is crossed by the Pike a mile northeast of 
the town, the river a mile beyond the town on 
the southwest. This river is another part of the 
Shenandoah—the north fork of the South 
Branch. It is joined by the other forks (Middle 
River and South River) near Port Republic, and 
the combined waters go down east of the Mas- 
sanutten range to a union with the North 
Branch at Riverton, near Front Royal. 

At Burketown the Pike bridges a small stream 
called Naked Creek. It is a feeder to North 
River (the north fork of the South Branch of 
the Shenandoah), seen at Mt. Crawford and 
crossed by the Pike a mile south of the town. 

At the foot of the hill upon which the village 
of Verona stands are Augusta Mills (Bolen’s 
Mill), on Middle River. The view upstream 


34 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 



Scene on Shenandoah River 


from the iron bridge is attractive in its quiet 
rural setting. Middle River is also a fork of 
the South Shenandoah. South River, the third 
fork of the South Branch of the Shenandoah, 
flows down the side of the Valley next to the 
Blue Ridge, past Waynesboro, Basic, and Grot¬ 
toes. 

To sum up, the North Branch of the Shenan¬ 
doah River flows into the west side of the Val¬ 
ley, out of Brock’s Gap, past Broadway and 
Timberville, then through the entire length of 
Shenandoah County, west of the Massanutten 
Mountain, turning eastward around the end of 
the mountain at Strasburg. The South Branch 
of the Shenandoah River drains the upper Val¬ 
ley, uniting North River, Middle River, and 
South River near Port Republic, and flowing 
down through Rockingham and Page County, 
east of the Massanutten Mountain, receiving the 
North Branch at Riverton in Warren County. 
The united waters then flow on through War¬ 
ren and Clarke County, Virginia, and Jefferson 







SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


35 


County, West Virginia, to the Potomac, at Har¬ 
per’s Ferry. 

It is the North Branch of the Shenandoah that 
the tourist along the Valley Pike sees at Stras- 
burg, Narrow Passage, Red Banks, Mt. Jack- 
son, and Rude’s Hill; it is a fork of the South 
Branch that he sees at Mt. Crawford (North 
River) and at Verona (Middle River). 



Mountain Falls 




PART SEVEN 


“This wondrous valley! hath it spells 
And golden alchemies?” 

South of Winchester 

Just outside of Winchester, following the Val¬ 
ley Pike southward, is the Hollingsworth Mill, 
a noted landmark built by Isaac Hollingsworth 
in 1884. The little stream that runs the mill is 
Abram’s Creek, named for Abraham Hollings¬ 
worth, one of the first settlers in this part of 
the Valley. Abram’s Creek flows out to the 
Opequon, in the direction of Berryville, through 
parts of the battleground of September 19, 
1864, where Sheridan’s fifty thousand drove in 
Early’s twenty-five thousand, through Winches¬ 
ter and up the Valley. This conflict is known in 
history as the battle of Opequon; sometimes as 
the battle of Winchester. 

A short distance east of the Hollingsworth 
Mill, near Shawnee Spring, is the large Hollings¬ 
worth Spring, often called the Rouss Spring. 
Near it Abram Hollingsworth settled in or about 
the year 1732, and not far away his father, pay¬ 
ing him a visit, was killed by a buffalo, it is said, 
while hunting. The old Hollingsworth house, 
hard by the spring, dates from the year 1754, 
and was, according to tradition, more than once 
attacked by Indians. 

Charlotte and Little Phil 

About a mile and a half outside of the city, 
where the Cedar Creek road leads off westward 
from the Pike, stands the old Hillman house. 
Here was the oldest toll gate on the Pike, and 
from the year 1840, when the gate was first 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


37 


placed there, till only a few years ago, the gate 
keepers were members of the same family, the 
Hillmans. And here is a story of “nerve.” Here 
it was, so the story runs, that Charlotte Hillman, 
a young, beautiful girl, pulled down the gate 
in the face of Sheridan's army and demanded 
toll! Sheridan and his staff, being at the head 
of the column, were the first to face the fire— 
in the young woman's eye. Sheridan surrend¬ 
ered and paid toll. His staff, following his ex¬ 
ample, did likewise. “But,” said Sheridan, as 
he passed through the gate, “I cannot vouch for 
my army.” 

Miss Hillman was equal to the emergency. 
She had sense as well as courage. When the 
boys in Blue came up she raised the pole, but 
stood at her post all day long, cutting a notch 
in the pole for every ten soldiers that passed. 
And after the war was over, thus runs the con¬ 
clusion, she counted the notches in the pole, sent 
her bill to Washington, and was paid. 

Four miles out the Valley Pike from Win¬ 
chester is the village of Kernstown. Here is an 
old Presbyterian church, by some believed to be 
the oldest church in the Valley. 

Kernstown Battlefield 

lies on the ridge west of the village about a mile 
and a half. There, on March 23, 1862, Stone¬ 
wall Jackson was driven back by Shields in a 
hard-fought contest; and there, on July 24, 
1864, Crook was driven back towards the Po¬ 
tomac, with a loss of 1200 men, by Jubal Early, 

The firing of the first battle began, it is said, 
at four o'clock in the afternoon of the March 
day, with the lines almost within a stone's throw 
of each other. Both sides were trying to reach 
the cover of a long stone fence that stood be¬ 
tween them. The 24th Virginia, running rapid¬ 
ly, reached the fence and, crouching behind it, 
poured a deadly volley into the Federals who 
were then only ten or fifteen yards away. But 


38 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


the latter, being supported by overwhelming 
numbers, soon rushed over the fence and drove 
this regiment, which constituted one wing ot 
Jackson’s army, into the woods, capturing some 

prisoners and a cannon or two. 

The battle raged till nightfall, when Jack- 
son fell back to Cedar Creek. It is said that 
Shields, at the same moment, was thinking of 
ordering a retreat. In this battle Jackson s loss, 
killed, wounded, captured, and missing was 
718; Shelds’ loss, corresponding, was 590. 

The Old Hite Homestead 

Two miles southwest of Kernstown, following 
the Valley Pike, one reaches and crosses Ope- 
quon Creek, which here flows eastward. Soon 
turning northeast it divides the counties of 
Frederick and Clarke and thence continues, in 
the same course, to the Potomac River through 
the eastern panhandle of West Virginia. 

Near the Opequon, where the Valley Pike 
crosses it, is a fine old stone house that is of 



John Hite House, near Jost Hite House, 
Springdale on Opequon 






SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 39 

special interest to students of the early history 
of Northern Virginia. It is the old Hite home¬ 
stead, Springdale. This house, as may be as¬ 
certained from the date cut high up in the south 
gable, was built in 1753. The builder was Col¬ 
onel John Hite, son of Jost Hite. The latter was 
the leading pioneer of the lower Valley, it 
would seem, and he came into the region and 
settled here in 1732, the very year in which 
George Washington was born. 

Witness Washington 

In the spring of 1748 young Washington, then 
just sixteen years old and beginning his land 
surveys for Lord Fairfax, made several refer¬ 
ences in his journal to visits at Jost Hite's. For 
example, on March 14, 1748, he wrote: 

“We sent our baggage to Captain Hite’s, near 
Fredericktown (Winchester), and went oursel¬ 
ves down the river about sixteen miles.” 

On April 11, following, this entry appears: 

“We traveled from Coddy’s down to Freder¬ 
icktown where we reached about 12 o’clock. We 
dined in town and then went to Captain Hite’s 
and lodged.” 

Witness Schnell 

Even five years earlier other sojourners in the 
Opequon country found Captain Hite’s a con¬ 
venient lodging place. Under date of Novem¬ 
ber 21, 1743, Leonard Schnell, a Moravian mis¬ 
sionary from Pennsylvania, wrote in his dairy: 

“At sunset we came to a German innkeeper, 
Jost Hayd, a rich man, well known in this reg¬ 
ion. He was the first settler here. He was very 
courteous when he heard that I was a minister. 
I asked him for the way to Carolina. He told 
me of one, which runs for 150 miles through 
Irish settlements, the district being known as 
the Irish tract.” 

The “Irish Tract” was the section including 


40 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


Staunton and Lexington, which was settled 
mainly by the Scotch-Irish. 

About 40 yards from the John Hite house, 
.slightly nearer the creek, are the ruins of an 
older house. This was perhaps the very house 
in which Jost Hite lodged George Washington 
and other guests of those early days. 

Opposite the old mansion, on the west side of 
the Pike, and a hundred or two yards farther 
up the Opequon towards the railway station of 
Bartonsville, is a huge stone mill. This was 
built by the Hites in the year 1788. Near by 
is White Sulphur Inn, for the accommodation 
of visitors. 

New Town (Stephens City) 

Two miles southwest of Springdale, eight 
miles from Winchester, is Stephens City, a pro¬ 
gressive village that lies in the midst of a rich 
farming district and adjacent to extensive lime 
factories on the railway. 

The town was established by law in 1758 and 
was first known as Stephensburg, later as New 
Town. Winchester was “Old Town.” It was laid 
out on the lands of Lewis Stephens, a German, 
whose father, Peter Stephens, was the founder 
of the town. Peter came to the Valley in 1732 
with Jost Hite. New Town was composed al¬ 
most entirely of Germans, and Pennsylvania 
“Dutch” was the language in use there for 70 
years. Long ago the wagons made at New Town 
had an extensive reputation. 

Middletown 

Middletown is a progressive village a dozen 
miles from Winchester, and about 16 miles from 
Woodstock. It is not quite in the middle, as its 
name implies, between the two county seats, but 
it is, nevertheless, Middletown. It is on the fam¬ 
ous Cedar Creek battlefield. It is also the site 
of an excellent agricultural high school and is 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


41 


noted for its Wayside Inn. The outline of the 
Massanutten Mountain, northeast promontories, 
is very striking as seen from Middletown and 
vicinity. 

Cedar Creek Bridge 

Slightly more than 14 miles southwest of 
Winchester, near Middletown, the Pike, by 
means of an iron bridge, whirls half way around 
and crosses historic Cedar Creek. For beauty 
of scenery this spot can hardly be equalled in a 
long journey. The tourist should spend a half 
hour here enjoying the beauties lavishly un¬ 
folded. From the center of the bridge the view 
upstream is equalled only by the view down¬ 
stream. There are the ruins, vine-clad, of an old 
stone mill, almost hidden among the trees a 
hundred yards below the bridge. This pic¬ 
turesque old ruin stands between the turnpike 
and the stream. It is one of the grim, silent wit¬ 
nesses of war times. The mill was burned, so 
much of it as would burn, by Sheridan’s soldiers 
in October, 1864. 

Opposite the old mill site is a commodious 
brick house which was erected in 1858 and used 
during the battle around it as a hospital. The 
kitchen table then served well for an operating 
table. One day when Ashby had his cannon 
planted on the high hill just back of the house 
a premature shot tore through the upper story 
of the dwelling. On one occasion a wounded 
Johnnie, a native of Frederick County, was se¬ 
cretly cared for upstairs while the Billies were 
in full possession downstairs. In the long level 
meadows below the house and the mill a cavalry 
stampede once took place. 

Strasburg as a Center 

Strasburg, 18 miles from Winchester, 11 miles 
from Woodstock, 10 miles from Front Royal, is 
in the center of the world—or as much so as 


42 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


any other place is. On the North Branch of the 
Shenandoah River, at the northeast end of the 
Massanutten Mountain, in the midst of famous 
battlefields, surrounded by matchless scenery, 
and at the junction of turnpikes and railroads, 
its position is stragetic and commanding. The 
old name of Staufferstadt (Stover Town) has 
almost been forgotten in the bustle of a new 
and ambitious life, but the Stovers, the Funks, 
the Spenglers, and other sturdy pioneers who 
braved the dangers of savage times and con¬ 
quered the wilderness are not forgotten. 

“The knightliest of the knightly race, 
That since the days of old 
Have kept the lamp of chivalry 
Alight in hearts of gold; 

Who climbed the blue embattled hills 
Against uncounted foes, 

And planted there, in valleys fair, 

The lily and the rose.” 

On the high hill at Strasburg, above the rail¬ 
road, are the furrowed earth walls of a Federal 
fort. In the spring of 1862 General N. P. Banks 
was watching from that stronghold, looking up 
the Valley west of the Massanutten Mountain, 
waiting for Stonewall Jackson to come down. 
Jackson came, but not that way. At Front 
Royal, far to the east, on the other side of the 
mountain, almost in Bank’s rear, the May day 
suddenly resounded to the roar of cannon, the 
rattle of musketry, the gallop of cavalry, and 
the rebel yell. Pell mell Banks had to hu*ry 
down from the hill to get ahead of Jackson m 
the race towards the Potomac. By several roads, 
the Valley Pike and others, the Blue lines 
streamed, the Gray lines cutting across from 
the east and striking them by day and by night 
all along the way—at Middletown, at New 
Town, at Kernstown, at Winchester, and be¬ 
yond. 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


43 


The most graphic description of this episode 
of Valley history perhaps ever written is given 
in Chapter XXII of “The Long Roll” by Mary 
Johnston. General Dick Taylor, of Louisiana, 
who was with Jackson, has also written a very 
fine account of this part of the Valley Campaign 
in his book entitled “Destruction and Recon¬ 
struction.” The following quotation, though 
rather long, is justified, we believe, by its his¬ 
torical interest and its fine touches of descrip¬ 
tion of natural scenery: 

General Dick Taylor Talks 

Jackson, a day or two before he surprised 
Banks’ left wing at Front Royal, had cut across 
the Valley from New Market, through the Mas- 
sanutten Mountain, to Luray, and had gone 
down east of the mountain towards Front Royal, 
while Banks was all the while watchfully wait¬ 
ing at Strasburg, or thereabouts. 

Thus Taylor writes: 

“The road led north between the east bank 
of the river and the western base of the Blue 
Ridge. Rain had fallen and softened it, so as 
to delay the wagon trains in rear. Past midday 
we reached a wood extending from the moun¬ 
tain to the river, when a mounted officer from 
the rear called Jackson’s attention, who rode 
back with him. A moment later, there rushed 
out of the wood to meet us a young, rather well¬ 
looking woman, afterward widely known as 
Belle Boyd. Breathless with speed and agita¬ 
tion, some time elapsed before she found her 
voice. 

“Then with much volubility, she said we were 
near Front Royal, beyond the wood; that the 
town was filled with Federals, whose camp was 
on the west side of the river, where they had 
guns in position to cover the wagon bridge, but 
none bearing on the railway bridge below the 
former; that they believed Jackson to be west 


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Shenandoah Valley 


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SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 45 

of Massanutten, near Harrisonburg; that Gen¬ 
eral Banks, the Federal commander, was at 
Winchester, twenty miles north of Front Royal, 
where he was slowly concentrating his widely 
scattered forces to meet Jackson’s advance, 
which was expected some days later. 

“All this she told with the precision of a staff 
officer making a report, and it was true to the 
letter. 

“Jackson was possessed of these facts before 
he left Newmarket, and based his movements 
upon them; but, as he never told anything, it 
was news to me, and gave me an idea of the 
strategic value of Massanutten—pointed out, in¬ 
deed, by Washington before the Revolution. 
There also dawned on me quite another view of 
our leader than the one from which I had been 
regarding him for two days past.” 

In May of ’62 

In connection with his spirited description of 
Jackson driving the thousand Federals out of 
Front Royal and pushing them across the Valley 
to the Pike at Middletown, and of there strik¬ 
ing the main forces of Banks as they were hurry¬ 
ing north from Strasburg, General Taylor (a 
son of “Old Rough and Ready”) gives the fol¬ 
lowing graphic picture of the Valley from Front 
Royal: 

“The situation of the village (Front Royal) 
is surpassingly beautiful. It lies near the east 
bank of the Shenandoah, which just below 
unites all its waters, and looks directly on the 
northern peaks of Massanutten. The Blue 
Ridge, with Manassas Gap, through which 
passes the railway, overhangs it on the east; 
distant Alleghany bounds the horizon to the 
west; and down the Shenandoah, the eye ranges 
over a fertile, well-farmed country. Two bridges 
spanned the river—a wagon bridge above, a 
railway bridge some yards lower. A good pike 



46 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


led to Winchester, twenty miles, and another 
followed the north river, whence many cross¬ 
roads united with the Valley Pike near Win¬ 
chester.” 


in June of ’S3 

It was at Front Royal and Riverton that most 
of General Lee’s army crossed the Shenandoah 
in June, 1863, passing northward via Winches¬ 
ter into Maryland and Pennsylvania, just be¬ 
fore Gettysburg. 


“Foot Cavalry” 

It was in the Valley Campaign of 1862 that 
Stonewall Jackson’s men, by their remarkable 
rapidity of movement from place to place, won 
the name of “foot cavalry.” 

After driving Ranks across the Potomac, 
Jackson had to hurry back up the Valley to 
avoid being cut off by two Federal armies which 
were converging upon the Valley at the narrow 
passes : Fremont from the west, upon Strasburg; 
Shields from the east, upon Front Royal. 

“Forty-two Miles Without Sleeping” 

Mr. Thomas D. Gold, in his “History of 
Clarke County,” relates the following incidents 
of the race back from the Potomac, up the Val¬ 
ley: 

“The march to Martinsburg and Harper’s 
Ferry and the investment of that place was rap¬ 
idly accomplished. Here the 2nd Virginia with 
Co. I (a Clarke County company) were sent 
across the Shenandoah to hold the mountain top 
on the Loudoun side. His rear being threaten¬ 
ed from Front Royal and Moorefield, Jackson 
had to get away faster than he came, if he was 
to save his plunder and his prisoners, and even 
his army. 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


47 


“The army marched for Winchester, leaving 
the Stonewall Brigade to follow as soon as the 
2nd Virginia could be moved from its position 
across the river. The darkness of the night, and 
some mistake in orders by which the regiment 
was marched back to the top of the mountain 
after having reached the river, and immediately 
marched back to the river again, so delayed the 
2nd regiment that they were left by the Brigade 
far in the rear. After crossing the river they 
marched to Charlestown, where many of them 
lived, and halted for an hour for breakfast. 
They then pushed on and made the longest con¬ 
tinuous march ever recorded, overtaking the 
Brigade at Newtown after a march of forty-two 
miles without sleeping.” 


“Stonewall Jackson’s Way.” 

Jackson’s men by this time were learning to 
trust him, and they marched to the last mile 
and fought to the last ditch, though they 
grumbled and swore at the same time. The 
spirit of the “foot cavalry” is well portrayed in 
the following lines: 

“He’s in the saddle now, fall in— 

Steady, the whole brigade! 

Hill’s at the ford, cut off—we’ll win 
His way out, ball and blade! 

What matter if our shoes are worn ? 

What matter if our feet are torn ?— 

Quickstep! we’re with him ere the dawn— 
That’s Stonewall Jackson’s way!” 

Sheridan and Early Again 

It would be impossible to narrate, in this brief 
outline, half of the strring events that took place 
m the region around Strasburg, Front Royal, 
and Winchester in the martial days of ’61 to 




48 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


’65. We can touch only a few of the high 
points. 

After Sheridan had driven Early up the Val¬ 
ley in September, 1864, from the hard-fought 
field of Opequon (Winchester), he followed; 
and, on September 22, dislodged him from 
Fisher’s Hill. In this battle, among the thickets- 
and ravines, then upon the plateau southward, 
Early suffered heavily, losing about 1200 men. 
Sheridan’s loss was about 500. His large num¬ 
bers continually gave him the advantage. 


“The Burning.” 


Sheridan pursued Early up the Valley. At 
Mt. Jackson Early made another stand, but was- 
driven back. This sort of thing continued until 
Sheridan was far up in the Valley, between 
Harrisonburg and Staunton. Then, as he turned 
northeast, he put into effect a program of de¬ 
struction that had beforehand been agreed 
upon. As he retired down the Valley he spread 
his troops from mountain to mountain and set 
fire to the barns and mills and drove off the 
live stock. Crackling flames and rolling columns 
of smoke marked the swath of destruction, day 
after day, until the lower Valley was reached. 
The burning began on the 6th of October. By 
the 10th Sheridan was back in the vicinity of 
Winchester. His army pitched wide-flung 
camps on the plateau just north of Cedar Creek,, 
around Middletown and Belle Grove. 

Early followed the retreating wall of fire and 
cloud, striking now and then. On October 9 
(1864) a sharp fight occurred at Tom’s Brook, 
in which the Confederates lost eleven cannon. 


Cedar Creek and Sheridan’s Ride 


Early, from his camp on Fisher’s Hill, looked 
across the six or seven miles to Sheridan’s camp 
beyond Cedar Creek. From the Massanutten 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


49 


peaks his signals watched and waved. Long 
before dawn on the morning of October 19 his 
right wing, led by Gordon, reached out along 
the mountain side, across the river, across Cedar 
Creek, and stealthily crept around the left flank 
of Sheridan’s camps. It reminds us of Stone¬ 
wall Jackson’s circuits at Second Manassas and 
Chancellorsville. Wharton moved upon the 
right wing of Sheridan’s camps, far to the west, 
along the present line of the railway to Win¬ 
chester. Kershaw advanced between Gordon 
and Wharton. 

Confusion broke with the dawn. The Fede- 
rals, surprised in their blankets, scattered in 
flight. Only their retired right wing avoided 
rout. But General H. G. Wright, who was in 
command of the Federals in Sheridan’s ab¬ 
sence, succeeded in reforming his lines a mile 
and a half below Middletown. A little later 
Sheridan arrived, having galloped up the ten or 
eleven miles from Winchester, his black char¬ 
ger’s hoofs beating time to the sounds of battle. 

Herman Melville, Thomas B. Read, and 
others have celebrated Sheridan’s ride in poetry. 
Read’s poem is best known, and several stanzas 
are quoted below. It should be remembered, 
however, by the student of history that the 
“twenty miles” are mere poetic license. The 
Federal camps at first were only fourteen miles 
from Winchester, and by the time Sheridan met 
his retreating soldiers they had fallen back 
three or four miles. The best account of what 
he actually did is given in his “Personal Mem¬ 
oirs,” published in New York in 1888. 

But here is part of the famous poem: 

“Up from the south, at break of day, 
Bringing to Winchester fresh dismay, 

The affrighted air with a shudder bore, 
Like a herald in haste to the chieftain’s 
door, 

The terrible grumble, and rumble, and 


50 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


roar, 

Telling the battle was on once more, 

And Sheridan twenty miles away. 

“But there is a road from Winchester town, 

A good, broad highway leading down; 

And there, through the flush of the morn¬ 
ing light, 

A steed as black as the steeds of night 

Was seen to pass, as with eagle flight; 

As if he knew the terrible need, 

He stretched away with his utmost speed. 

Hills rose and fell, but his heart was gay, 
With Sheridan fifteen miles away. 

“The first that the general saw were the 
groups 

Of stragglers, and then the retreating 
troops; 

What was done? What to, do? A glance 
told him both. 

Then striking his spurs with a terrible oath, 

He dashed down the line, ’mid a storm of 
huzzas, 

And the wave of retreat checked its course 
there, because 

The sight of the master compelled it to 
pause. 

With foam and with dust the black charger 
was gray; 

By the flash of his eye and the red nostril’s 
Play, 

He seemed to the whole great army to say' 
‘I’ve brought you Sheridan all the way 

From Winchester down to save the day/’’ 

The Ramseur monument, which stands beside 
the Pike a short distance south of Middletown, 
is not far from the points at which Gordon 
struck his surprise blow upon Sheridan’s camps 
that early morning. Old Belle Grove Mansion, 
half a mile northwest from the monument, was 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


51 


Sheridan’s headquarters after the battle; and 
there, in a room close to that occupied by the 
Federal commander, General Ramseur died the 
next day. He had fallen into the hands of the 
Federals as Early was driven back up the Val¬ 
ley. 

Following is a copy of the inscription on the 
bronze tablet, base of the Ramseur monument: 

NORTHWEST OF THIS TABLET 800 YARDS, 

IS THE BELLE GROVE HOUSE IN WHICH DIED, OCT. 20, 1864, 
OF WOUNDS RECEIVED AT CEDAR CREEK, OCT. 19, 1864, 
MAJ.-GEN. STEPHEN DODSON RAMSEUR, C. S. A. 

A NATIVE OF NORTH CAROLINA, HE RESIGNED FROM 

THE UNITED STATES ARMY IN 1861, AND ENTERING 

THE CONFEDERATE STATES ARMY AS A LIEUTENANT 
ROSE TO THE RANK OF MAJOR-GENERAL AT THE AGE OF 27. 

ERECTED 1919 BY 

THE NORTH CAROLINA HISTORICAL COMMISSION 

AND 

THE NORTH CAROLINA DIVISION U. D. C. 

At another point on the Cedar Creek battle¬ 
field, not far from the Ramseur monument and 
near the place where the Pike crosses the shad- 



Federal Monument, Cedar Creek Battlefield 










52 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


owed stream, is a Federal monument, bearing 
the following inscription : 

• 

128th REGT. N. Y. S. V. I. 

IN MEMORY OF 
THE MEN OF THIS REGIMENT 
WHO LOST THEIR LIVES AT THE BATTLE 
OF CEDAR CREEK, OCTOBER 19, 1864. 

ERECTED BY 

THEIR COMRADES AND FRIENDS. 

DEDICATED IN 1907. 

In the battle of Cedar Creek, owing to the 
surprise attack, the Federals lost heavily—5600, 
including 1700 prisoners. Early lost only 2900 ; 
but, following the Federal rally in the afternoon 
of the battle, he was driven by Sheridan’s over¬ 
whelming numbers in wild confusion up the Val¬ 
ley. He camped for three weeks at New Mar¬ 
ket, while Sheridan sojourned at Kernstown. 
Later there was some skirmishing between the 
outposts, but the battle of Cedar Creek was the 
last big battle in the Valley. 



PART EIGHT 


Beside the Massanutten 

From Strasburg to Front Royal and back 
again the armies of Blue and Gray played hide 
and seek around the towering peaks of Massa¬ 
nutten, which here divide the Valley with ma¬ 
jestic boldness, while the Blue Ridge on the 
east and the Alleghanies on the west draw near 
in rugged sympathy, as if to close the narrow 
gates. Before passing on, either north or south, 
the tourist will do well to take another look 
about him to see what he has perchance over¬ 
looked, either in scenic beauty, in civic achieve¬ 
ment, or in cherished story. 

Front Royal and Riverton 

At Riverton the two branches of the Shenan¬ 
doah unite in a scenic limestone gorge that is 
fringed with corn and willows and threaded 
with roads and railroads. At Front Royal, the 



Old Millar Homestead, near Front Royal, where 
George Washington, Davy Crockett and 
other persons of note have been 
entertained 




54 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


county-seat of Warren County, landscape charm 
is enhanced by history and tradition. From the 
arcades of Randolph-Macon Academy, which 
crown a commanding height, the view of town 
and mountains is unsurpassed. Beyond the town, 
on the first green slopes of the Blue Ridge, in 
Chester Gap, the U. S. Government remount 
station imposes a cosmopolitan touch upon the 
sheltered arcady. The massive, yet graceful 
buildings, set in the midst of 5000 acres of Al¬ 
pine fields, compose one of the great show 
places of the Valley. 

Near Strasburg 

Near Strasburg, in addition to the battlefields 
and fort already mentioned, are Crystal Cav¬ 
erns, Fisher’s Hill, and Powell’s Fort. Crystal 
Caverns are on the Valley Pike, just a mile 
north of Strasburg, in one of the hills of Cedar 
Creek battlefield. Fisher’s Hill is a mile south¬ 
west of Strasburg, and is crossed by the Valley 
Pike on its way toward Woodstock and the 
upper Valley. Powell’s Fort is a romantic vale 
that is hidden away in the gorges of the Mas- 
sanutten Mountains. It ends almost on a line 
drawn from Strasburg to Front Royal, where 
the creek that drains it leaps down from the 
heights to join the Shenandoah River. At 
present a splendid engineering project is under 
way, by which the waters from Powell’s Fort 
are to be carried through the mountain by 
means of a tunnel for the better furnishing of 
the town of Strasburg and the surrounding com¬ 
munity. The roads leading from Strasburg and 
Front Royal into Powell’s Fort are passable for 
automobiles, and the Fort is a favorite summer 
resort for many persons from both towns. 

Marlboro and Mountain Falls 

Fifteen miles north of Strasburg, and an 
equal distance west of Winchester, high on the 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


5t> 


slopes of Great North Mountain, are Mountain 
Falls, long celebrated for their beauty and their 
wild environs. Over a massive ledge of rock a 
cold mountain brook leaps merrily down sheer 
ninety feet; then, gathering its scattered rills 
and sprays again, it takes another leap of 
twenty-five feet into the yawning canon. The 
view of these falls from the gorge below is in¬ 
describably beautiful. Anyone who delights in 
hard climbing and unspoiled nature will enjoy 
a visit to this idyllic spot. By way of Mountain 
Falls postoffice, a road passable for automobiles 
leads to a point within half a mile of the falls. 

Marlboro, on Cedar Creek, five miles north¬ 
west of Middletown, is the site of General Isaac 
Zane’s old iron works. During the Revolution 
and before, the iron from Zane’s furnaces was 
widely used in northern Virginia. Part of the 
ruined furnace stack may still be found at Marl¬ 
boro, and nearby is a pile of ore that has prob¬ 
ably lain there a hundred years. The Cedar 
Creek gorge at Marlboro, the cascade, the old 
stone mill, and the quaint wooden bridge are 
well worth a visit. 

Fisher’s Hill 

From Strasburg to Fisher’s Hill the Valley 
Pike curves around the foot of a long ridge, al¬ 
most dipping into the sparkling waters of the 
Shenandoah River at one or two points. The 
scene eastward, across the river and beyond the 
town, toward the towering Massanutten, is 
worthy of more than one pause and glance. 

At the foot of Fisher’s Hill the Pike crosses 
a small stream, clear and cold from the hills 
westward, then begins to wind around and up 
the rugged slope. The old track lies on the 
north side of the hill; but this is being abandon¬ 
ed for the new way on the south side. Fisher’s 
Hill has long been one of the danger places on 
the Pike, and the ice that gathers in the shade 
of the north side in winter has added no little 


56 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


to the hazard of a journey down that way. The 
new way of sunshine on the south side is much 
•safer, though it lacks perforce the romance and 
the tragedy, as well as the picturesqueness, of 
the old trail. 

It was at Fisher’s Hill, as already noted, that 
Sheridan on September 22, 1864, following up 



Dead Man’s Bend, Fisher’s Hill 


the Valley from Winchester, fell upon Early and 
defeated his dwindling forces again. Early’s 
line was stretched across the Pike on the brow 
of the hill, and thence across the railroad, be¬ 
hind the little stream, far towards the west. 
Sheridan, while attacking on the front, sent 
Crook on a long circuit from the right wing to 
fall upon Early’s left flank and rear. Descend¬ 
ing thus from Little North Mountain, Crook 
doubled back Early’s thin line, and soon the 
boys in gray were forced back up the Pike, 
across the plateau to Tom’s Brook and beyond. 
But for many years past the Johnnies have 




SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


57 


come back to Fisher’s Hill every summer for a 
grand reunion. This annual event has come to 
be one of the notable occasions in the social life 
of the Valley. 


Four “Round Hills” 

West of the Pike, between Fisher’s Hill and 
Tom’s Brook, rises the wooded cone locally 
known as “Round Hill.” It is a conspicuous 
landmark, and it bears a favorite name; for no 
less than four hills in the Shenandoah Valley 
are called Round Hill. One of them is just back 
of Winchester; another is at Bridgewater, in 
Rockingham County; a third is also in Rocking¬ 
ham County, between Greenmount and Singer’s 
Glen. This one west of Fisher’s Hill, north of 
Tom’s Brook, makes four. 

Tom’s Brook has its history to enhance its 
natural scenery. Near the village, on October 
9, 1864, a sharp fight was staged between sev¬ 
eral Federal brigades and the Confederates who 
were following upon the heels of the barn¬ 
burners. The Johnnies were repulsed with 
rather severe loss. 

The next village on the Pike above Tom’s 
Brook is Maurertown, locally called “Morry- 
town,” with its thrifty homes and its well-kept 
school building. Two or three miles farther on 
the Pike crosses Pugh’s Run, near the railroad 
bridge, which may be seen through the trees 
a hundred yards up the gorge. A mile south 
of Pugh’s Run is Woodstock, “Miller’s Town” 
of colonial days, the county-seat of Shenandoah 
County. 


Historic Old Woodstock 

The town was established by law in the year 
1761, on 1200 acres of land belonging to Jacob 
Miller, and hence was familiarly termed “Muel- 
lerstadt,” although the legal name, as fixed in 
the Act of Assembly of 1761, was Woodstock. 


58 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


Cornelius Riddel, John Skeen, Burr Harrison, 
Matthew Harrison, Joseph Langdon, Moses 
Striker, Adam Yeaker, Jacob Miller, and Peter 
Hainger were the first directors and trustees. 

“Shanando” vs. Dunmore 

The temper of the Woodstock folk in colonial 
days may be judged from several incidents. 
In 1772 the new counties of Berkley and Dun- 
more were carved out from old Frederick; but 
by 1777 the name of Dunmore had become so 
odious to the patriots that they got the Assem¬ 
bly to change the name of their county to “Shan¬ 
ando. ” This, in time, has come to be familiar 
and beloved in the longer form of “Shenan¬ 
doah. ” As early as June 16, 1774, some of the 
leading citizens in the vicinity of Woodstock 
called a public meeting which adopted spirited 
resolutions in behalf of colonial liberty. A com¬ 
mittee of safety and correspondence was ap¬ 
pointed, the personnel of which committee has 
abiding luster—Peter Muhlenberg, Francis 
Slaughter, Abraham Bird, Taverner Beale, John 
Tipton, and Abraham Bowman. 

Feeding Boston 

After news of the Boston Port Bill reached 
the Shenandoah Valley the people here began 
to make liberal gifts of their substance for the 
relief of their suffering brethren in the North. 
Bancroft the historian says that the farmers of 
the Valley hauled to Frederick (Winchester, 
in all probability) 137 barrels of flour for the 
Massachusetts town. It is well known how 
Daniel Morgan and his riflemen from Winches¬ 
ter and the Valley made a record march to Bos¬ 
ton—and into immortal story. Soon after Mor¬ 
gan and his men went to Boston and Quebec 
and Saratoga, the famous “German Regiment” 
from the Shenandoah Valley also broke into 
Revolutionary history. And many of the men 



SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


59 - 


who helped George Rogers Clark conquer the 
Northwest were from the hills and vales of 
Shenandoah. Joseph Bowman, Clark’s right 
hand man, was from the vicinity of Strasburg. 
He was a grandson of pioneer Jost Hite of 
Springdale. 


A Bugle Call 

The particular incident that gave old Wood- 
stock a unique distinction in song and story was 
the dramatic conduct, early in the Revolution, 
of young Pastor Muhlenberg. Thomas Buch¬ 
anan Read has given us the most stirring picture 
of the incident. As we look and listen we think 
of Macaulay’s thrilling story of how the news 
of the Armada’s approach was heralded in 
England, 

“From Eddystone to Berwick bounds, 
From Lynn to Milford Bay, . . 

Till Belvoir’s lordly terraces 
The sign to Lincoln sent, 

And Lincoln sped the message on 
O’er the wide vale of Trent.” 

So, after the fight at Lexington, in Mas¬ 
sachusetts, in April 1775, the news was carried 
by riders, flashed by fires, and sounded with 
bells— 


“Out of the North the wild news came, 
Far flashing on its wings of flame, 

Swift as the boreal light that flies 
At midnight through startled skies.” 

Out of New England, across New York and 
the Jerseys, through the staid Quaker commu¬ 
nities of Pennsylvania, across Catholic Mary¬ 
land, and beyond the Potomac into Virginia, 
and the South, 

“The first oath of Freedom’s gun 
Came on the blast from Lexington.” 


60 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


At Woodstock and elsewhere in the Shenan¬ 
doah Valley there was “tumult in the air,” and 
“the answering tread of hurrying feet.” On a 
Sunday morning shortly following the young 
pastor, John Peter Gabriel Muhlenberg, provid¬ 
ed already with a colonel’s commission, turned 
his sermon into a call to arms, while at the 
door of the little church, by his order, 

“The enlisting trumpet’s sudden roar 
Rang throug the chapel, o’er and o’er.” 

A regiment, the 8th Virginia, soon famous as 
“The German Regiment,” was recruited from 
the Valley and led away to war by young Muh¬ 
lenberg. Later, when he was made a general, 
Abraham Bowman, a brother to Joseph Bow¬ 
man, commanded this regiment. 

From the old stone court house in Wood- 
stock it is only a few rods to the spot where 
Muhlenberg’s little church of Revolutionary 
days stood. Historians, poets, and artists have 
sought the place, drawn by the “stirring sen¬ 
tences he spake.” 

Mr. Elon O. Henkel is of the opinion that 
Muhlenberg probably carried out the same 
program of martial fervor at Rude’s Hill and 
New Market. At any rate, the warlike pastor’s 
clerical gown may be seen today at New Mar¬ 
ket, among Mr. Henkel’s interesting collection 
of relics; his statue in the Capitol at Washing¬ 
ton takes its pose from those dramatic days in 
the Valley. 

County Archives 

In the quaint old court house at Woodstock, 
as well as in the county clerk’s office at Win¬ 
chester, are volumes of interesting records, dat¬ 
ing back to colonial days. The student of his¬ 
tory and biography will find these records a 
rich storehouse of information. The Shenan¬ 
doah Herald, a weekly newspaper now owned 
by Miss Mary C. Grabill, has been published at 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 61 

Woodstock for more than a century. Massa- 
nutten Military Academy is built around the 
old home of Senator H, H. Riddleberger, at 
the south end of the town. 

If the visitor will drive eastward from Wood- 
stock to the top of the Massanutten Mountain 
he may command a landscape view that is hard 
to parallel. At his feet, between the mountain 
and the town, lies the rich river plain, marked 
off in a marvelous series of panels by the gi¬ 
gantic convolutions of the stream as it winds 
back and forth for many miles. No photograph 
can give an adequate impression of the beauty 
and the majesty of this scene. 

Powell’s Fort 

Looking eastward from the mountain-top at 
this point, one sees the long, narrow little val¬ 
ley already mentioned and widely known as 



Entrance to Powell’s Fort, near Strasburg and 

Front Royal 




62 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


Powell’s Fort. This romantic and idyllic vale 
divides the mountain chain for a distance of ten 
or twelve miles. Beginning at a point nearly 
opposite Edinburg and Woodstock, it continues 
in its hidden way to the end of the Massanut- 
ten chain at Strasburg and Front Royal. The 
scenery in the Fort is rugged and sublime. 
Stories of romance and tragedy are not want¬ 
ing, if anything were needed to enhance the 
charm of nature’s gifts. Several times during 
the Civil War this quiet fastness became a “val¬ 
ley of death.” In Indian days it was a haunt 
and a hunting ground. Washington, we are 
told, more than once thought of it as a place 
built by nature for the last defence of a forlorn 
hope. 

For a long time during the early years of set¬ 
tlement, a man by the name of Powell lived in 
the Fort and coined money from precious metals 
that he alone knew where to find. All efforts 
on the part of the officers of the law to appre¬ 
hend him, one after the other, ended in failure. 
He always eluded them. Hence arose the 
name, “Powell’s Fort.” Even in our own prosaic 
days—to be more exact, on dark stormy nights 
—some of the dwellers far out in the great Val¬ 
ley can see lights flashing on the Massanutten. 
“Old Powell is out again tonight,” they say. 

At a quiet little resort in Powell’s Fort, 
namely, Seven Fountains, one may secure a cot¬ 
tage for the summer and spend a month or two 
far from the noise and rush of cities. At other 
places camping parties find “sylvan solitudes 
and boughs for canopy.” 

Narrow Passage 

Three miles southwest of Woodstock, on the 
Valley Pike, is Narrow Passage, scenic and his¬ 
toric. Fenced in on either side, the Pike here 
crosses on a ledge of rocks the narrow wall 
that divides creek and river. On the east side 
is the Shenandoah, “Daughter of the Stars,” 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


63 


rippling and sparkling far below. On the west 
side the creek comes tumbling down the gorge, 
under the high railway bridge, as if impatient 
to join the river. Held back by the rock wall 
on which the road is built, it whirls abruptly 
northward, but drawn irresistibly by the chains 
of gravity it continues to seek the larger stream 
with such persistency that the two are united 
within half a mile. 

The tourist should rest here for half an hour, 
clamber down the bluff toward the river and 
walk out on the little suspension bridge that 
spans the stream, and there revel in the riot of 
color, form, and motion that greets the eye. 

In the early days, when the farmers of the 
Valley had to “wagon” to Winchester and 
Alexandria, the road at the narrows was so 
meager and so hedged in with trees that each 
driver on coming to the entrance at either end 
was expected to stop his team and walk ahead 
before driving in, to see that the way was clear. 
Two wagons could not pass in that “strait and 
narrow way.” 

Some years ago a cattle train broke down the 
high wooden railway bridge that then stood 
where the iron bridge may now be seen. It 
was a night of horror. Practically all of the 
cattle and nearly all of the men on the train 
were killed. 


Edinburg Gap 

Two and a half miles southwest of Narrow 
Passage, by the railroad and the Valley Pike, 
is the thrifty town of Edinburg, near the mouth 
of Stony Creek. The natural scenery along the 
creek from Edinburg to the Shenandoah River is 
bold and beautiful. 

At Narrow Passage and all along the Pike be¬ 
tween that point and Edinburg a conspicuous 
feature in the eastward landscape is Edinburg 
Gap, in the Massanutten Mountain. It opens 
wide and deep behind the end of Six-Mile Moun- 


64 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


tain (a ridge of the Massanutten that towers 
along between Edinburg and Mt. Jackson), and 
admits the traveler to the upper end of Powell’s 
Fort. Roads lead through the gap into the Fort 
from Edinburg and vicinity. 

Pence’s Hill and Red Banks 

The distance between Edinburg and Mt. Jack- 
son is seven miles. Halfway between the two 
towns is Red Banks, a historic old homestead by 
the river side. In the days of stage-coaching 
Red Banks was a favorite place of entertain¬ 
ment for travelers. Andrew Jackson and 
Madame Jerome Bonaparte were among the 
guests of antebellum years. The old house at 
Red Banks has been remodeled and transform¬ 
ed into a mansion elegant and modern, but the 
original walls of the structure have been incor¬ 
porated in the present building. At Red Banks 
the Pike turns sharply, and the automobile 
driver, especially if he is coming from the north¬ 
east (from Woodstock and Edinburg), needs 
to exercise due care—unless he wishes to take a 
flying leap into the river. 

Halfway between Red Banks and Edinburg 
is Pence’s Hill, a fine elevation with a long ap¬ 
proach from either side. From the top of Pence’s 
Hill one may see the Massanutten Range in its 
entire length of fifty miles. Southward is the 
end opposite Harrisonburg; towards the north¬ 
east may be seen the abrupt promontory at 
Strasburg; and all along the horizon eastward 
the regular outline of the mountain wall. 

Jumping Run Bridge 

For half a mile above Red Banks the Pike 
runs beside the beautiful Shenandoah, which is 
here spanned by a bridge and fringed with wil¬ 
lows. At the point where Jumping Run enters 
the larger stream the tourist may find refresh¬ 
ment in the Riverside Tea Room. The camper, 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


65 


the swimmer, and the angler will be fain to 
linger another day. The village of Hawkins- 
town is on the hill, half a mile farther towards 
Mt. Jackson. It is surrounded by fertile farms 
and beautiful scenery. 

Mt. Jackson 

Mt. Jackson, halfway between Edinburg and 
New Market—seven miles from either—com¬ 
memorates in its name the times and the virtues 
of “Old Hickory” ; in its history it is replete with 
stories of the Civil War ; and in its surroundings 
it is furnished to delight the eye. It was the 
scene of frequent sharp fights between Blue and 



Monument in Confederate Cemetery, 

Mt. Jackson 


Gray. Here was located a large Confederate 
hospital; and in the soldiers’ cemetery near the 
town may be seen one of the most artistic monu¬ 
ments of those that mark the resting places of 
heroes dead. The old union church in the midst 









66 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


of the village has been the scene of community 
activities for three or four generations. 

Orkney Springs 

Twelve miles northwest of Mt. Jackson, in 
the foothills of the Alleghanies, are Orkney 
Springs, long famous for their healing waters. 
The Blue Sulphur, the Bear Wallow, and the 
Iron Spring are among those best known. At 
Orkney accommodations may be secured for a, 
day or for a summer. The scenery along Mill 
Creek, between Mt. Jackson and Orkney, must 
be seen to be appreciated. 

The River Bridge 

A mile above (south) of Mt. Jackson the Pike 
leaps off the brow of a hill and crosses the Shen¬ 
andoah by means of an iron bridge. The broad, 
level expanse of Meems’s Bottoms extends from 
the bridge two miles to the foot of Rude’s Hill. 
The old wooden bridge that spanned the river 
during the Civil War was the scene of many 
hard fights between Blue and Gray. It was a 
point of great strategic value. 

In the opinion of L. Triplett, Esq., of Mt. Jack- 
son, the hardest fight of the famous Valley Cam¬ 
paign (of 1862 ) took place here. General 
Turner Ashby, Captain Ramsay Koontz, and an¬ 
other Confederate were attempting to burn the 
bridge to cover Stonewall Jackson’s retreat up 
the Valley before Fremont. They were attack¬ 
ed by five Federals. Two of the latter were 
killed and the other three were wounded. The 
Confederates burned the bridge. 

When Fremont threw across a pontoon 
bridge, Jackson had trees cut above, thrown 
into the river, and headed downstream. The 
river was “high” and the logs broke Fremont’s 
bridge. The Federals also tried to cross the 
river farther up, at Quicksburg and New Mar¬ 
ket, but Jackson prevented them. He thus gain- 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


67 


ed time to move his supplies and prisoners to¬ 
wards Harrisonburg. 

It was at or near the river bridge that Ashby’s 
famous white charger was mortally wounded. 

Meem’s Bottoms 

For two miles in a straight line, from the river 
bridge above Mt. Jackson to the foot of Rude’s 
Hill, the Pike runs across the celebrated thou¬ 
sand acres known as Meems’s Bottoms. This 
fine body of land forms a level peninsula be¬ 
tween the river on the west and Smith Creek on 
the east. On the bluff to the west stands the 
mansion house of Strathmoor, formerly the 
home of Gen. Gilbert S. Meem. On the hills to 
the east, between the creek and the Massanut- 
ten, is the fine old homestead of Mt. Airy, for¬ 
merly the residence of Capt. John Meem. 

Mt. Airy 

About the year 1800 William Steenbergen, 
sometimes called Baron Steenbergen, married a 
daughter of Col. Taverner Beale, well known in 
Revolutionary days. Soon afterwards the Baron 
built the limestone mansion known ever since 
as Mt. Airy. For it two mantelpieces were im¬ 
ported from Italy. A few years ago when the 
old structure was rebuilt, each stone was mark¬ 
ed and replaced in its former position. 

Rude’s Hill 

Rude’s Hill overlooks Meems’s Bottoms from 
the southwest, and affords one of the finest 
views in the Valley. From this point one can 
see, on a clear day, the Alleghanies running 
down the western side of the Valley almost or 
quite to the Potomac River. During the early 
spring of 1862 Stonewall Jackson’s army lay 
encamped for a week or two on Rude’s Hill, and 
at various times during the war sharp fights 


68 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


took place in the vicinity. The home of Col. John ; 
Francis Neff, the youngest regimental comman¬ 
der of the Stonewall Brigade, was in the red 
brick mansion in the flat, just across the river 
from Rude’s Hill. It is said that Muhlenberg 
preached in a Lutheran church that stood on or 
near Rude’s Hill in Revolutionary times. 

Shenandoah Caverns 

From Rude’s Hill a road leads off westward 
from the Pike to Shenandoah Caverns. The 
buildings belonging to the caverns may be seen 
on the hills a mile to the northwest. The large 
wooded hill just west of the caverns is known as 
Third Hill, or Turkey Knob. It was a noted 
signal station during the Civil War. 

Cedar Grove Church 

On Rude’s Hill, on the west side of the Pike, 
almost opposite Cedar Grove Church, is a white 
marble shaft that commemorates a tragedy of 
Reconstruction days. There, on June 27, 1865, 
Capt. Geo. W. Summers and Sergt. Newton 
Koontz of Page County were shot by order of 
Lt.-Col. Huzzy, of Ohio, on a charge of having 
violated their paroles. 

New Market 

New Market, said to have been laid out soon 
after the end of the French and Indian War by 
John Sevier, is on the plateau three miles south¬ 
west of Rude’s Hill and opposite the deep gash 
in the Massanutten known as New Market Gap. 

New Market was for many years the home of 
Joseph Salyards, scholar, teacher, and poet. At 
New Market in 1806 Ambrose Henkel establish¬ 
ed a printing house which is still in operation in 
the hands of his descendants. It is probably 
the oldest Lutheran printing house in America. 
Mr. Elon O. Henkel, the present owner and 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


69 


manager, has collected many historical relics in 
his office. A visit to his museum will be found 
interesting and profitable. 


New Market Battlefield 

On May 15, 1864, the Confederates, under 
General Breckinridge, defeated the Federals, 
under General Sigel, at New Market in a hard- 
fought battle. The Confederates came in from 
the southwest, drove the enemy out of the town, 
and pressed them on down across the plateau 
between the river and Smith Creek. The hard¬ 
est fighting was on the Bushong farm, just 



Federal Monument, New Market Battlefield 


northeast of the town. The old buildings there 
still show the marks of bullets and cannon shot. 
In the battle the 62d Virginia regiment, Wood¬ 
son’s company of Missourians, and the V. M. I. 
cadets won special honors. In the cemetery of 
St. Matthew Evangelical Lutheran Church is a 









70 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


granite shaft to the memory of the southern sol¬ 
diers and the Cadets. Near the old Bushong 
house is a marker to the Missourians; and near 
the Pike, not far from the Bushong house, is a 
Federal monument, erected specially to the 
memory of the 54th Regt. Pa. Vet. Vol. Infty. 

For books, maps, and more particular infor¬ 
mation regarding the battle of New Market, the 
student and the visitor should see Mr. Elon O. 
Henkel. 


New Market Gap 

In May, 1862, Stonewall Jackson led his army 
eastward through the New Market Gap while 
Banks was watchfully waiting for him at Stras- 
burg. If the tourist will follow Jackson’s trail 
through the Gap to Luray and Skyland he will 
find many wonders to delight the eye. 

Luray Cave 

The Luray Caverns should be visited by all 
lovers of wonderful, beautiful nature. Tickets 
and information may be secured at New Market 
as well as at Luray. The Lee Highway route 
leads from Washington across the Blue Ridge, 
past Luray, through New Market Gap, and on 
to the Valley Pike at New Market. 

Skyla;id 

In the Blue Ridge nine miles east of Luray, at 
an elevation of 4000 feet above the sea and 3600 
above the Page valley, is Skyland Park, an Al¬ 
pine wonderland of 6000 acres, made ready by 
skill and wealth for the summer visitor. Two 
miles away is White Oak Canyon, containing 
eight beautiful cascades, 50 to 100 feet in 
height. Many travelers declare that the scen¬ 
ery in White Oak Canyon surpasses that of 
Watkins Glen, N. Y.; and it has been suggested 
that Skyland is to the East what Eaton’s Ranch, 
Wyoming, is to the West. 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 71 

Endless Caverns 

Four miles south of New Market, at the foot 
of the beautiful Massanutten, are the Endless 
Caverns, open to visitors day and night. More 
particulars concerning these subterranean laby¬ 
rinths will be found in the special chapter on 
caverns. 


New Market to Harrisonburg 

The distance between New Market and Har¬ 
risonburg is 18 miles. Along the way, follow¬ 
ing the Pike, one passes Tenth Legion, Lacey 
Spring, Melrose, and Smithland. On the rail¬ 
road one goes through the busy towns of Tim- 
berville and Broadway. 

Tenth Legion got its name from an expression 
of Thomas Jefferson, who spoke of the Valley 
as “the Tenth Legion of Democracy.” Lacey 
Spring, halfway between Harrisonburg and 
New Market, was the scene of a fierce engage¬ 
ment during the Civil War. Many thousands of 
the boys, Blue and Gray, long remembered the 
great spring at the foot of the hill. Smithland, 
two miles out of Harrisonburg, is the place 
where the justices of Rockingham organized in 
1778, under authority of Governor Patrick 
Henry. 

Harrisonburg 

In May, 1780, the Virginia legislature passed 
an act that established two towns: Louisville in 
the county of Kentucky and Harrisonburg in the 
county of Rockingham. The latter was laid out 
on 50 acres of land by Thomas Harrison, and 
was to be called Harrisonburg, although for 
many years in the common speech of the resi¬ 
dents and surrounding communities it was often 
termed “Rocktown.” The famous Bishop Fran¬ 
cis Asbury, who visited the place in 1794 and 
1795, refers to it in his Journal as “Rock-Town.” 

One of the early houses in Harrisonburg was 


72 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


built by Dr. Asher Waterman, soon after the 
‘dose of the Revolution. Waterman was a sur¬ 
geon in Washington’s army; was wtih him, it is 
said, at the crossing of the Delaware. He and 
his descendants became large landholders in 
and around Harrisonburg. In 1910 Albert G. 
Waterman of New York gave the town three 
Nacres for a school site, and his name is today 
honored in the Waterman School, which may be 
seen in the northern part of the city. The old 
house of Asher Waterman is still to be found 
at the southwest side of the public square, near 
the “Big Spring.” The latter was long a noted 
landmark of Harrisonburg, being until a gene¬ 
ration ago the chief source of water supply for 
the community; but it is now covered by the 
pavement of the street. A man-hole marks the 
spot, however, and one may still look down 
upon the gushing stream that satisfied the burn¬ 
ing thirst of red man and white man, and doubt¬ 
less also of deer and buffalo, for so many years. 

Harrisonburg is one of the youngest cities in 
Virginia, but it is one of the most progressive. 
Every visitor has a good word to say of its hos¬ 
pitality and thrift. One of the State Normal 
Schools of Virginia for white women is located 
on the south side of the city. It was opened to 
students in 1909. The Harrisonburg hotels and 
restaurants are excellent. The banks and busi¬ 
ness houses, the flour mills and factories, all re¬ 
flect the prosperity of farms, orchards, stock 
ranges, and poultry yards in the surrounding 
regions. 

On East Market Street, Harrisonburg, is Stone- 
leigh, the boyhood home of Dr. Walter Reed. 
At Stoneleigh in 1864 General Sheridan had his 
headquarters for several days. 

Harrisonburg as a Center 

Good roads lead out from Harrisonburg in all 
directions, and whether the visitor is interested 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


73 


in beautiful landscapes, historic homes and bat¬ 
tlefields, fine farms, productive orchards, pure 
bred stock, thrifty towns and villages, or a place 
to spend a leisure summer, the ways are open 
and the latch-strings are out. 



Entrance to Harrison Hall, State Normal, 

Harrisonburg 
















74 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


To Elkton and Shenandoah 

The twenty-mile drive from Harrisonburg 
eastward, around Peaked Mountain, through 
Penn Laird and McGaheysville to Elkton and 
Shenandoah City, is one of the finest in the 
country. The towering peak of the Massanut- 
ten, which the road half encircles, is unique and 
splendid. The undulating line of the Blue Ridge 
on the far side of the Valley is majestic and 
beautiful. When the mountain streams are 



Bear Lithia Spring, near Elkton 

flushed with vernal snows or summer rains the 
graceful curve of Cedar Cliff Falls, back of Elk¬ 
ton, may be seen from the Valley. Bear Lithia 
Spring, between Elkton and Shenandoah, is well 
worth a visit. Rockingham Springs, where Sid¬ 
ney Lanier spent the summer of 1879, is at the 
foot of the Massanutten. A monument to Spotts- 
wood and the Knights of the Horseshoe is in 
Swift Run Gap. Massanetta Cave is near 
Keezletowm. It is an underground fairyland. 

To Cross Keys and Port Republic 

To visit the historic battlefields of Cross Keys 
and Port Republic, one coming out from Harri¬ 
sonburg should take the Elkton road, but turn 
to the right at Peale’s Cross Roads, a mile north- 



SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


75 


west of Penn Laird. From Peale’s Cross Roads 
the Keezletown Road leads straight to Cross 
Keys. Thence cross-country roads lead to Port, 
three or four miles farther south. 

The battles of Cross Keys and Port Republic 
made a climax to Stonewall Jackson’s whirl¬ 
wind campaign of the spring and early summer 
}f 1862. At Cross Keys, on June 8, Ewell, with 
part of Stonewall’s army, checked Fremont’s ad¬ 
vance from Harrisonburg till Jackson crossed 
the rivers at Port. Then, on the 9th, two or 
three miles below Port, between the river and 
the Blue Ridge, Jackson and Shields fought the 
hardest battle of the Valley Campaign, while 
Fremont was held back by the flushed rivers, 
over which the bridges had been burned. In 
the battle of Port Republic the famous Louis¬ 
iana Tigers, with other celebrated troops, ren¬ 
dered effective service. At the bridge leading 
across North River into the village Jackson him¬ 
self narrowly escaped capture just before the 
battle. 


To Ashby Place 

Two miles south of Harrisonburg General 
Turner Ashby was killed at sundown June 6, 
1862, while covering Jackson’s retreat towards 
Cross Keys and Port Republic. A granite shaft 
marks the place where he was shot. John Es- 
ten Cooke, in “Surry of Eagle’s Nest,” has given 



Ashby’s Monument, near Harrisonburg 





76 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


.a stirring description of the fatal clash of arms 
in which Ashby fell. 

Grottoes of the Shenandoah 

(Formerly Weyer’s Cave) 

From Harrisonburg to The Grottoes is a 
drive of 20 miles over good roads and through 
beautiful landscapes. Follow the Valley Pike 
out of the city southward; turn east on the hill 
above Burketown; pass through the village of 
Weyers Cave; cross Middle River by the bridge 
at Mt. Meridian; go east to the South River 
bridge near Grottoes; turn to the right along¬ 
side Cave Hill. Riverside Park at the Grottoes 
is a beautiful resting place. Weyer’s Cave and 
the adjacent Cave of the Fountains are among 
the world’s wonders. 

Dayton and Bridgewater 

Four miles westward from Harrisonburg, on 
the old Warm Springs Turnpike, is the busy 
town of Dayton. Here are located the Shen¬ 
andoah Collegiate Institute, founded in 1875, 
and the well-known Ruebush-Kieffer Publishing 
House. The old dwelling beside Cook’s Creek 
at the entrance to Dayton was built in colonial 



Silver Lake and Mole Hill, Dayton 

nass^cfp 11 ^ WaS L i se -d as a An undergroui 

of the hill ed Jt With a Spring at the ‘ 







SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


77 - 


Three miles farther westward is Bridgewater, 
on North River, in the midst of beautiful land¬ 
scapes. Bridgewater College was established 
in 1880. 



Natural Falls and Round Hill, Bridgewater 

Rawley Springs 

Twelve miles northwest of Harrisonburg, hid¬ 
den in the first ranges of the Alleghany Moun¬ 
tains, is the well-known summer resort, Raw- 
ley Springs. Many families of Harrisonburg 



Washington’s Profile, Rawley Springs 

and Rockingham County have cottages here; 
and plans are under way for restoring the large 
hotels for the accommodation of guests from a 
distance. 

Singer’s Glen 

Nine miles north of Harrisonburg is the beau¬ 
tiful rural village of Singer’s Glen. There, a cen- 







78 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


tury ago, Joseph Funk, now hailed as “Father 
of Song in Northern Virginia,” began to teach 
vocal music and to publish music books for the 
use of the common people. The little house in 
which he carried on the modest beginnings of 
his great work is still standing beside the spring 
that gushes from the hillside. His fine services 
have been continued and enlarged in the hands 
of three generations of his descendants. Thou¬ 
sands near and far bless his memory. The Rue- 
bush-Kieffer Publishing House at Dayton is an 
outgrowth of his work at Singer’s Glen— 
“Mountain Valley,” as it was known until 1860. 

Near Singer’s Glen is the popular summer re¬ 
sort of Sparkling Springs. 

Brock’s Gap 

A few miles north of Singer’s Glen—just 
northwest of Broadway—is one of the greatest 
natural wonders of the Valley, Brock’s Gap. 
Here the head waters of the north branch of 
the Shenandoah River gash their way out of the 
Alleghanies, forming some of the boldest and 
most picturesque scenery in the country. From 
the day in September, 1784, when George 
Washington came through this way into Rock¬ 
ingham from a western tour, to the present, the 
Gap road has been a much-used highway. Near¬ 
ly every summer afternoon it is traversed by pic¬ 
nic parties from the Valley towns. 

To reach Brock’s Gap from the Valley Pike 
the tourist should turn westward near Mauzy, 
between Tenth Legion and Lacey Spring; go 
by way of Mayland to Broadway, and thence 
up the river road to the Gap. 

The Lincoln Homestead 

Eight miles north of Harrisonburg, below 
Edom, m the beautiful Linville Creek Valiev is 
the old home of “Virginia John” Lincoln and 
his descendants. It was from this place that 
Abraham Lincoln, with his baby son Thomas 
moved to Kentucky about the end of the Revo- 



SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 79 

lution. The front part of the present Lincoln 



Lincoln Homestead 

house on Linville Creek was built by Capt. Jacob 
Lincoln about 1800; the wing in the rear was 
added some years later by his son Abraham. 
The graveyard on the hill contains the graves 
of Lincolns and their relatives. For a hundred 



Lincoln Graveyard 

years Lincolns have been living at Lacey Spring 
as well as on Linville Creek. Other members 
of the family live in Harrisonburg and else¬ 
where in the county. 

Near the Lincoln house is the old homestead 
of the Bryans, the family into which Daniel 
Boone married. It is said that the Boones, when 
moving south, sojourned for a year on Linville 
Creek. 










PART NINE 


South of the Massanutten 

From Harrisonburg to Staunton and Lexing¬ 
ton the Valley widens out again into its full 30 
miles from the Blue Ridge on the east to the 
Alleghanies on the west. The south end of the 
Massanutten range, which divides the Valley 
from Strasburg to Harrisonburg, drops abruptly 
down into the plain just below Cross Keys and 
Port Republic. Seen from Staunton, Waynes¬ 
boro, and other points in the upper Valley, this 
end of the range looks like a single peak, cutting 
boldly into the skyline. 

Grattan’s Hill— And Others 

On the Valley Pike, between Mt. Crawford 
and Burketown, one crosses North River. It is 
a fork of the south branch of the Shenandoah, 
and it is the stream over which Stonewall Jack- 
son burned the bridge at Port Republic in 1862. 
At the same time, at the bridge on the Pike, he 
had a force stationed to keep back the Federal 
right wing. 

Along the Pike between the river bridge and 
Burketown the observer has a fine view of Grat¬ 
tan’s Hill, a large wooded cone on the west. It 
is right on the line between the counties of Rock¬ 
ingham and Augusta. 

Northwest of Grattan’s Hill four miles is 
Round Hill, just back of Bridgewater; and far¬ 
ther around towards the north is the gracefully 
rounded bulk of Mole Hill, several miles north¬ 
west of Dayton. All three of these hills, Grat¬ 
tan’s Hill, Round Hill, and Mole Hill, are con¬ 
spicuous landmarks from the Pike between Mt. 
Crawford and Burketown. Off to the south may 
be seen a similar hill, near the village of New 
Hope. 



SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 81 

Old Stone Church 

A mile and a half southwest of Mt. Sidney, on 
the Pike, is Augusta Stone Church, dating from 
Indian times. It is said that the women of the 



Old Stone Church, Fort Defiance 


congregation carried the sand used for making 
mortar in the original structure in bags, on 
horseback, from the river several miles away; 
and that for many years the men carried their 
rifles to the Sunday services. 

Near Augusta Church are the railway station 
of Fort Defiance (so called from the use of the 
old church as a fort) and Augusta Military Aca¬ 
demy. 

Willow Spout 

Near Fort Defiance (quite near the military 
academy) is one of the best-known landmarks 
on all the ninety-odd miles of the Valley Pike— 
the Willow Spout. For a century, perhaps, a wil¬ 
low tree has stood by the roadside, and from it 
has gushed a stream of cold water to quench 
the thirst of man and beast. It is probable that 
every soldier, Blue and Gray, who passed that 
way in the sixties, had a drink from the Willow 









82 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


Spout. One tree has succeeded another, and 
one spout has replaced another, as the genera¬ 
tions of men have come and gone; but the Wil- 



Willow Spout, Fort Defiance 


low Spout still supplies its life-giving stream for 
all the wayfarers on the Long Gray Trail. In 
the Willow Spout Coffee House may be seen a 
piano used in 1879 by Mrs. Sidney Lanier. 


Betsy Bell and Mary Gray 

From Middle River and Verona, going south¬ 
ward, one soon comes to the hills of Staunton; 
and above them all rise boldly up the twin 
heights, Betsy Bell and Mary Gray. Various 
stories, romantic and tragic enough, are told in 
explanation of the names ; but there fihey stand 
—they can speak for themselves ! 

“For whether they be bonny hills, 

Or lassies, as some say, 

There’s many a swain loves Betsy Bell, 

An’ dreams o’ Mary Gray!” 






SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


83 


Historic Staunton 

Staunton, the largest city of the Shenandoah 
Valley, stands at the crossing of great high¬ 
ways, with open doors and hospitable provision 
for son and stranger. Here the main line of the 
C. & O. Railway, east and west, crosses the 
Valley Branch of the B. & O., running north 
and south. Here, too, the automobile route 



Birthplace of Woodrow Wilson, Staunton 


from Richmond, Gordonsville, and Charlottes¬ 
ville passes westward to Monterey, to Goshen, 
Hot Springs, Warm Springs, and White Sulphur 
Springs, crossing the Valley Pike and the roads 
to Lexington, Roanoke, and Lynchburg. 

In Staunton is the birthplace of Woodrow 
Wilson. Two miles east of the city are the old 
home and the grave of John Lewis, the Augusta 
pioneer, whose sons, Thomas Lewis, Gen. An¬ 
drew Lewis, and Col. Charles Lewis, became 
famous in colonial and Revolutionary days. In 
the city are well-known schools: Mary Baldwin 
Seminary, Stuart Hall, Staunton Military Aca¬ 
demy, and the Virginia School for the Deaf and 









84 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 



John Lewis House, near Staunton 


Blind. The Augusta County records are a rich 
mine of information for the student and his¬ 
torian. 


Near Staunton 

Buffalo Gap, on the road to Goshen, and 
Jennings Gap, on the road to Monterey, are rich 
in natural scenery. Stribling Springs, 12 miles 
north of Staunton, and Seawright Spring, 10 
miles out of the city, are famed for their invigo¬ 
rating waters. It was at Stribling Springs, it is 
said, that Mrs. Townshend wrote that beautiful 
poem, “A Georgia Volunteer.” The path of 
Jackson’s army, returning from McDowell, led 
hard by the Springs, and one of the brave fel¬ 
lows, mortally wounded in the battle, was buri¬ 
ed there, “where the moss lay thick beneath 
the foot and the pines sighed overhead.” 

Nine miles northeast of Staunton, near New 
Hope, is the battlefield of Piedmont, where a 
bloody engagement took place on June 5, 1864, 
between 9,000 Federals under General Hunter 
and a somewhat smaller force of Confederates 
under Generals Jones and McCausland. Gene¬ 
ral Jones (Wm. E.) was killed in the battle. 








SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


85 



Cyclopean Towers, near Mt. Solon 


Cyclopean Towers 

Near Mt. Solon, 15 miles north of Staunton, 
are the picturesque Cyclopean Towers; and in 
the village is the beautiful Crater Lake. 

Waynesboro and Basic 

A dozen miles east of Staunton, on the fine 




86 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


road towards Charlottesville, are the twin towns 
of Waynesboro and Basic. They lie in the midst 
of rich farms and productive orchards. At 
Waynesboro is Fishburne Military Academy; at 
Basic is Fairfax Hall, a high-class school for 
young women. The view both east and west, 
from the top of the Blue Ridge, just back of 
Basic and Waynesboro, at the gates of the splen¬ 
did private estate of Swannanoa, is unsurpassed. 
At Basic the main line of the C. & O. crosses 
the Norfolk & Western Railway, Roanoke-to- 
Hagerstown line. 

The McCormick Homestead 

The thirty-six miles of auto roads between 
Staunton and Lexington lead through beautiful 



The McCormick Homestead, near Lexington 


landscapes and scenes historic. For example, 
on the line between the counties of Augusta and 
Rockbridge, near Raphine, is Walnut Grove, the 
old home of Cyrus McCormick, the inventor and 
builder of the first successful reaper. Not far 
away is the old home of Mr. Gibbs, sewing ma¬ 
chine inventor. 

Lexington and Environs 

Lexington, often termed the “Athens of the 





SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


87 


South,” is so well known as to need no detailed 
description here. It is the seat of Washington 
and Lee University and the Virginia Military In¬ 
stitute. Here lived Stonewall Jackson, Robert 
E. Lee, and Matthew F. Maury, and here are 
the tombs of Lee and Jackson. Here lived also 



Stonewall Jackson Memorial Hall, V. M. I. 


Margaret J. Preston, whose poetry lives in 
American literature. Here, or near here, were 
born Sam Houston and “Big-Foot” Wallace, 
famous in the annals of the Lone Star State. 
Near Lexington are the celebrated Goshen Pass, 
with its monument to Maury; Kerr’s Creek, 
with its scenes of Indian massacre; House 
Mountain, with its halos of sentiment; and the 
world-famous Natural Bridge, with its history 
and its mystery. 

The Natural Bridge 

The Natural Bridge must be seen to be appre¬ 
ciated. No description, no painting, can do it 
justice. It is located 14 miles south of Lexing¬ 
ton and may be reached easily by automobile. 
Near it is Natural Bridge railway station at the 
junction of the C. & O., James River Division,, 




88 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 



The Natural Bridge 


and the N. & W., Roanoke-to-Hagerstown line 
At the Natural Bridge are excellent hotel ac 
commodations. 



PART TEN 


Caverns of the Shenandoah Valley 

With the Natural Bridge, it is the marvelous 
limestone caverns that make the Valley of Vir¬ 
ginia one of the world’s great wonderlands. 
Beauty of landscape and wealth of history can 
perhaps be matched in a few other regions, but 
the subterranean fairylands of the Shenandoah 
Valley stand unrivalled. 

Grottoes of the Shenandoah 

The Grottoes of the Shenandoah, formerly 
known as Weyer’s Cave, were discovered in a 
bluff beside South River in the year 1804 by a 
hunter, Bernard Weyer. For more than a cen¬ 
tury they have proved a marvel and a delight 
to all visitors. Frank H. Taylor of Philadelphia 
says; “I have painted, sketched, and described 
many noted caverns. Of them all, the Grottoes 
are, in my opinion, the most beautiful and pro¬ 
fuse in their impressive geological features.” 

The Bridal Veil, the Pontifical Canopy, Solo¬ 
mon’s Temple, the Persian Palace, the Lily 
Room, the Shell Room, the Grand Glacier, and 
Cathedral Hall are only a few of the remark¬ 
able features of Weyer’s Cave. Cathedral Hall 
is unique in size and beauty. 

The railway station of Grottoes, on the N. & 
W., Roanoke-to-Hagerstown line, is only a mile 
from the cave. Excursion trains stop at the 
grounds. Weyer’s Cave station, on the Valley 
Branch of the B. & O., is five miles northwest. 
Port Republic is only two and a half miles north¬ 
east. 

The Grottoes may easily be reached by auto 
from Harrisonburg, Elkton, Waynesboro, Basic, 
Bridgewater, Port Republic, or Staunton. From 


90 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 



Bridal Veil, Grottoes of the Shenandoah, 

Grottoes 















SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


91 


the Valley Pike the road to Grottoes turns east¬ 
ward on the hill just above Burketown. Seven 
miles, through Weyer’s Cave Station, Mt. Meri¬ 
dian, and intervening farms, measure the way 
to Weyer’s Cave Park and Ye Olde Forge Tea 
Room. 

Adjacent to Weyer’s Cave is another remark¬ 
able series of grottoes, the Cave of the Foun¬ 
tains. 

For information regarding these caves, write 
J. M. Pirkey, Manager, Grottoes, Va. 

Massanetta Cave 

In 1892 hands blasting rock for lime on the 
lands of Augustine Armentrout, near Keezle- 
town, in Rockingham County, discovered the 
beautiful wonder now known as Massanetta 
Cave. It is in one of the foothills of the Mas- 
canutten Mountain and may easily be reached 
via the Chesapeake-Western Railway, or by 
auto roads from Harrisonburg, Elkton, and 
Port Republic. It contains 28 apartments and 
the decorations of stalactites and stalagmites 
are of great profusion and variety. Scientists 
and pleasure-seekers are ever delighted with 
this gem of nature. 

Correspondence in regard to Massanetta Cave 
should be addressed to Mr. Johnson P. Armen¬ 
trout, Keezletown, Va. 

The Endless Caverns 

Four miles south of New Market, at the foot 
of the Massanutten Mountain, Reuben Zirkle 
and his sons, in the autumn of 1879, discovered 
a winding labyrinth that honeycombed the hills 
and that is now famous as the Endless Caverns. 
In 1919 Colonel Edward T. Brown and others 
acquired the property, and by the lavish expen¬ 
diture of wealth have enhanced the wonders of 
nature with the conveniences of science and art. 
A good road has been built in to the caverns 


02 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 



The Gateway to Fairyland, Endless Caverns, 

New Market 

from the Valley Pike, a beautiful and commo¬ 
dious lodge has been erected, spacious camping 
grounds have been laid out, and the most ap¬ 
proved systems of electric lighting have been 
installed. Visitors may enter the caverns with 
equal comfort night or day. The Oriental Pal¬ 
ace, the Lake Grotto, the Grand Canyon, the 
Ball Room, the Gypsy Tent, the Arctic Circle, 
the Snow Drift, Fairyland, and the Diamond 
Lake are only some of the marvelous attractions 
of the Endless Caverns. Fairyland and the Dia¬ 
mond Lake are beautiful beyond description or 
imagination. 

Travelers along the Valley Pike should turn 
in at the “old log cabin by the lane,” which 
stands hard by the Pike about two miles south¬ 
west of New Market. Those coming by the 
Southern Railway, Harrisoifburg Division, 
should stop at New Market or Harrisonburg. 

For an illustrated booklet, address Endless 
Caverns, New Market, Va. 




SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


93 



Broad us Lake, Luray Caverns, Luray 







■94 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


Luray Caverns 

“In Xanadu did Kubla Khan 
A stately pleasure-dome decree, 

Where Alph, the sacred river, ran 

Through caverns measureless to man, 

Down to a sunless sea.” 

These striking lines, so familiar in Luray Cave 
literature, give one a proper feeling for a de¬ 
scent into the mystic wonderlands of the lime¬ 
stone hills. 

Luray Caverns, it is said, were discovered in 
the year 1878, and shortly thereafter were open¬ 
ed to the public. Their great extent was not at 
that time dreamed of, but their wonders were 
a delight from the first to all beholders. From 
time to time additional labyrinths have been dis¬ 
covered and made accessible to visitors. The 
Saracen’s Tent, the Cathedral, the Bridal Cham¬ 
ber, Giant’s Hall, the Fish Market, the Ball 
Room, Pluto’s Chasm, the Elfin Ramble, and the 
American Eagle are a few of the striking fea¬ 
tures. The American Eagle and the Saracen’s 
Tent are marvels of mystery and beauty. 

To reach Luray one may travel over the N. & 
W. Railway, Roanoke-to-Hagerstown line, or 
cross the mountains from east or west by auto. 
Tourists on the Valley Pike should turn east¬ 
ward at New Market, where full information 
regarding the caverns may be obtained. 

For an interesting descriptive booklet, aa- 
di ess Luray Caverns Corporation, Luray, Va. 

Shenandoah Caverns 

In 1884 a preliminary exploration was made 
of a cave that had long been known to exist in 
Neff’s Hill, near Quicksburg, Shenandoah 
County, Virginia. A touch of romance, border¬ 
ing on tragedy, was soon added by incautious 
visitors, among them a bride and groom who for 
thirty-six hours were lost in the stygian depths. 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


95 


Whether they knew that they were lost or not 
is still a mystery, but their alarmed friends final¬ 
ly rescued them. 

In 1921 Messrs. Manor and Chapman pur¬ 
chased these caverns and began improving the 
facilities for access and inspection. By the ex¬ 
penditure of large sums of money the work of 
development was pushed forward rapidly, and 
since the opening in May, 1922, thousands of 



Hunter’s Lodge, Shenandoah Caverns, near 

Quicksburg 







96 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


visitors from different parts of the world have' 
been delighted with the wonders that Nature 
has here wrought out in lavish profusion. The^ 
Hunter’s Lodge, the Frost King’s Palace, the In¬ 
dian Wigwam, the Capitol Dome, the Leaning 
Tower, the Hanging Gardens, the Grove of the 
Druids, and Diamond Cascade are a few of the 
special attractions in this subterranean wonder¬ 
land. 

Trains on the Southern Railway, Harrison¬ 
burg Division, stop at Shenandoah Caverns. The 
station is only a few hundred yards from the 
cave entrance. Mt. Jackson and New Market 
are nearby towns. From Rude’s Hill, on the 
Valley Pike, an auto road leads directly to the 
caverns, only a mile or two westward. Hotel ac¬ 
commodations may be obtained at the caverns. 


Crystal Caverns 

On Hupp’s Hill, beside the Valley Pike a mile 
north of Strasburg, and on a part of the famous 
battlefield of Cedar Creek, may be seen the ob¬ 
servation tower and the entrance buildings of 
Crystal Caverns. Known for many years as 
Hupp’s Cave, this grotto was visited occasion¬ 
ally from the days of early settlement in the 
Valley, but it was only in January, 1922, that 
plans were undertaken to make it accessible 
and attractive to large companies. Since May 
30, 1922, it has been open to the public. The 
Giant’s Coffin, the Brontosaurus, the Capitol 
Dome, the Cannon Balls, and the Ballroom are 
particular features of Crystal Caverns. 

The view of Cedar Creek battlefield and the 
lower Valley from the observation tower at 
Crystal Caverns is unsurpassed. 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 


97 



Landmarks at Night 

The tourist who passes along the Valley Pike 
at night will be cheered for many miles by bril¬ 
liant lights on either side. At Rude’s Hill he 
will see, off to the northwest, the row of electric 
orbs that lead up to Shenandoah Caverns. 
Above New Market he will be attracted by the 
lights of Endless Caverns, off to the southeast. 
The most brilliant of the galaxy is a revolving 








98 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


lamp that throws its far-reaching rays in 
perpetual circle, from mountain to mountain 

The message of these lights is, “Welcome!’ 


The Long Gray Trail 

Ninety miles and more it stretches 
Up the Valley, towards the south; 

Firm it is to wheel and hoof-beat, 

Firm it holds in flood and drouth; 

And it links the towns and cities, 

Jewels on a silver chain, 

Shining in their emerald settings, 

In the broad and fertile plain. 

Leading out from fair Winchester, 

‘Cross Opequon’s silver stream, 

Through the fields of hard-fought battles, 
And where Shendo’s waters gleam, 

Far along the Massanutten, 

Where the shadows blend and play, 

On it leads to the hills of Staunton— 
Betsy Bell and Mary Gray! 

Straight it runs for leagues of distance, 
Here and there a crook or turn; 

Now it leaps a creek or river, 

Or caresses bank and burn; 

But it never halts or falters, 

On it leads through night and day, 
Like a cheering path of promise— 

‘Tis a fine old honest way! 

It is gray with dust of limestone, 

Ground by myraid pounding feet, 

And by wheels that turn unceasing 
Through the hours and minutes fleet; 
For the whole long trail is bordered 
With the native rocks of gray, 

Strewn in scattered heaps about it, 

As from giant hands at play. 


SCENIC AND HISTORICAL GUIDE 

It is gray with age and hoary 
From the passing of the years, 

Long unknown in white man’s story, 
Though beset with hopes and fears; 

For the red men in their journeys 
Passed this way in the long ago, 

Now to visit friendly neighbors, 

Now to attack some distant foe. 

And perchance before the red men 
Made it path to friends and foes, 

It was marked out through the woodlands 
By the shaggy buffaloes, 

Choosing well the fairer levels, 

Grading true each slope and hill— 
Masters of their craft and cunning, 
Engineers of matchless skill! 

Can you feel again the romance 
Of this ancient long gray trail ? 

Can you hear the stages rattling, 

And the trav’ler’s lusty hail ? 

Can you see the long procession 
Of the endless marching years? 

Hear the laughter that has kissed them, 
Or the splash of blood and tears? 


It is gray with ghosts of warriors, 
Hosts in blue and hosts in gray, 
Thronging through the martial Sixties- 
This was Stonewall Jackson’s way! 
Hear you shouts of horsemen charging, 
Echoes that shall never fail ? 

Now, methinks, I hear a bugle, 

Sounding down the long gray trail. 

It is calling from the shadows 
Of a twilight far away, 

To the souls of heroes dying— 

Dying at the close of day; 

Or, it may be, only sleeping, 



100 


SHENANDOAH VALLEY 


Waiting for the Captain’s call 
To awake and gird for battle 
In the morning—that is all! 

O my Valley! Beauteous Valley ! 

Y r ou have seen and you have heard 
More than I can feel or utter, 

More than lies in human word; 

You have watched and you have listened; 

And though voice and song should fail, 
You’ll still cheer and you’ll still shelter 
All that pass the long gray trail. 



INDEX 


Aler’s History of Martins- 

burg .15 

Apple Pie Ridge .21 

Armentrout, J. P,, .91 

Asbury, Francis .71 

Ashby Brothers .20 

Ashby Place .7 5 

Ashby, Turner .G6 

“Athens of the South,” ....86-87 
Audley Court (Audley Farm) 17 
Augusta Military Academy 81 
Augusta Stone Church .81 

Bailey, Abigail .24 

B. & O. Railway .83 

Banks, N. P.42 

Banks’s Fort .3, 4 2 

Barn-Burning .4S 

Basic ..85-86 

Battlefields .1-3 

Battlefield Map . 44 

“Battletown” .16, 26 

Beale, Taverner .67 

Bear Lithia Spring .74 

Beautiful Views . 4 

Belle Boyd .43 

Belle Grove . 50, 51 

Berryville . 1G, 17, 24 

Beside the Massanutten ..53 

Betsy Bell .82 

“Big-Foot Wallace” .87 

“Big Spring” .7 2 

Blue Ridge Gaps .-10 

Boone, Daniel .7 9 

Boston Port Bill .58 

Bowman, Abram .58, 60 

Bowman, Joseph . 59, 6 0 

Braddock’s Army . 18, 27 

Briars, The . 16, 17 

Bridal Veil .....90 

Bridgewater .7 6-7 7 

Bridgewater College ..77 

Broadus Lake . .03 

Broadway .-7 1 

Brock’s Gap ...4, 43, 78 

Brown, E. T.91 

Bryan Homestead .7 0 

Buffalo Gap . 4, 11, 84 

Buffalo Trail .29 

Bugle Call, A, . 59 

Bunker Hill . 15 

Burketown .80 

Bushong Farm . 69, 70 


Calmes, Marquis .25 

Cave of the Fountains .. 7 6, 91 
Caverns of the Valley 7, 89-96 

Cedar Cliff Falls . 6, 74 

Cedar Creek . 4, 31, 32 

Cedar Creek Battle 4 8, 52, 96 
Cedar Grove Church .68 


Cemeteries of Winchester 19, 20 


Charles Town . 12, 13 

Charlotte Hillman . 36, 37 

Charlottesville .86 

Chester Gap .54 

C. & O. Railway .... 83, 86, 87 

C.-W. Railway . 91 

Circus Maximus .9 

Clarke County History .46 

Confederate Monument .65 

Cooke, John Esten .. 16, 17, 25 

County Archives .60 

“Crazy Rumsey” .13 

Crawford, Frank B., .23 

Cross Keys .7 4 

Crystal Caverns . 54, 96 

Cumberland Gap .29 

Cyclopean Towers . 85 

Dandridge, Mrs. Danske —13 
Darke, William . 13, 14 

“Daughter of the Stars” .... 9 

Dayton .7 6 

“Destruction and Reconstruc¬ 
tion” .43 

Dunmore County .58 

Early and Sheridan .56 

Edinburg Gap .63 

Elkton .7 4 

Endless Caverns .... 71, 91-93 

Fairfax, Lord . 25, 39 

Fairyland .-.92 

Famous Men .-. 3 

“Father of Song,” .7 8 

Federal Monument 51, 52, 69 
Fishburne Military Academy 86 

Fisher’s Hill .54-57 

“Foot Cavalry” . 5, 4 6 

Fort at Strasburg .42 

Fort Defiance .81 

Fort Loudoun .18 

Fort Loudoun Seminary . .. 18 
“Forty-two Miles Without 

Sleeping” .46 

Four Round Hills .4, 57 

Frederick Town .... 17. 39, 58 

Front Royal . 43-46, 53 

Funk, Joseph .7 8 

Gates, Horatio .13-15 

Gateways into the Valley—10 

“Georgia Volunteer” .84 

“German Regiment,” .58-60 

Gettysburg Campaign ....21, 46 

Gold. Thomas D.46 

Gordon, J. B.49 

Goshen .84 

Goshen Pass . 87 

Grabill, Mary C.60 

































































































INDEX 


Orattan’s Hill .... 80, 89, 90 

Greenway Coui’t .25-27 

Grottoes of the Shenan¬ 
doah . 7G, 89, 90 

Hackwood Farm .24 

Handley Schools .23 

“Hannibal of the West’’ ....1G 

Harper’s Ferry . 4, 5, 12 

Harrisonburg .71-73 

Hawkinstown .G5 

Henkel, Ambrose .68 

Henkel, Elon O., .60, 68, 70 

Hessians, .24 

Hillman Toll Gate . 36, 37 

Historic Staunton .83 

Historic Towns . 1 

Historic Valley Pike .28-35 

Historic Woodstock .57 

History of Clarke County ....46 

Hite Homestead .38-40 

Hite, John .38, 39 

Hite, Jost .38-40 

Hollingsworth Mill .36 

Hollingsworth Spring .36 

Hot Springs ..11 

House Mountain .4, 87 

Houston, Sam .....87 

Hunter’s Lodge .95 

Hupp’s Cave .9 6 

“Irish Tract,” .39, 40 

Jenning’s Gap .84 

John Brown .12 

Johnston, Mary .43 

Jumping Run .64 

Kettle, The . 6 

Kernstown Battle .37 

Kerr’s Creek Massacre .87 

Knights of the Horseshoe ....7 4 

Landmarks . 4 

Landmarks at Night .97 

Lee, Charles .13, 15 

Lee Highway .28, 70 

Lee, R. E.87 

Lexington . 86, 87 

Lewis, John . 83, 84 

Lincoln Graveyard .79 

Lincoln Homestead .78-79 

Lincoln, Robert T. 3 

Linville Creek .7 8, 79 

Long Gray Trail .98-100 

“Long Roll, The” .43 

Louisiana Tigers .7 5 

Luray Caverns . 7 0, 93, 94 

Lynchburg .11 

McCormick Homestead . 86 

McKinley, William . 18, 19 

Manor and Chapman . 95 

Map of Battlefields .44 

Map of Mountains and Rivers 8 

Marlboro .54 

Martinsburg . 14-15 


Mary Baldwin Seminary ....83 


Mary Gray .82 

lviassaneita Cave .7 4, 91 

Massanutten Military Aca¬ 
demy .61 

Massanutten Mountain ...A, 6 

Maury, M. F.87 

Meade, William . 25, z7 

Meems’s Bottoms _ 33, 66, 67 

Middle River . 33, 34 

Middletown .40 

Millar Homestead .53 

Miller, Jacob .57-58 

Miller, Thomas C.14 

“Miller’s Town” .57 

Millwood .24, 25 

Mole Hill .76, 80 

Moravian Missionary .39 

Morgan Daniel 2, 19, 20, 24, 58 

Morgan, Morgan .15 

“Morrytown” .57 

Mt. Airy .67 

Mt. Jackson . 65, 96 

Mt. Solon . 85 

Mountains and Rivers . 8 

Mountain Falls .35, 54 

“Mountain Valley” .78 

Muhlenberg, Peter .58-60 

Narrow Passage . 32, 62 

Natural Bridge 7, 11, 87, 88 

Natural Curiosities . 5 

Neff, John F.68 

Neff’s Hill .94 

New Market .68-70, 96 

New Market Gap .5, 7 0 

New Market Battlefield .69 

New Town .40 

New York-Atlanta Highway 28 
N. & W. Railway 86, 88, 89, 94 
North River .33-35 

Office, Old Stone, .26, 27 

Old Chapel .17, 25 

Okie Forge Tea Room .91 

“Old Log Cabin” .92 

Old Stone Church . 81 

Opequon Battlefield .... 22 , 24 

Opequon Creek . 15, 32, 38 

Orkney Springs, . 66 

Packhorse Ford . 13 

Pence’s Hill .64 

Piedmont Battle .84 

Pirkey, J. M.91 

“Porte Crayon” . 3 

Port Republic .74, 75 

Powell’s Fort, .... 6 , 54, 61, 62 
Preston, Margaret J.87 

Quaker Meeting Houses 22, 23 
Quicksburg . 94, 95 

Ramseur Monument .... 50, 51 
Randolph-Macon Academy 54 

Rawley Springs .77 

Read, T. B. 29, 49, 59 

Red Banks .33, 64 

Red Bud Road . 24 












































































































INDEX 


Reed, Walter . Is. 

Remount Station .54 

River Bridge, 'the . 66 

Riverside Tea Room . 64 

River System . 34 35 

Riverton .53 

Roads into the Valley ....10, 11 

Roanoke .11 

“Rocktown” .71 

Round Hill .4, 77, 30 

Rouss Spring .36 

Rude’s Hill. 33, 67, 68, 96 

“Rumsey's Walk” .14 

St. Hilda’s Hall, .13 

Salyards, Joseph .68 

“Saratoga” .24, 25 

Schnell, Leonard .39 

Seawi’ight Spring . 84 

Seven Fountains . 62 

S'evier, John . 68 

"Shanando” . 58 

Shawnee Spring . 17, 36 

“Shenandoah” meaning of 9 

Shenandoah Caverns 68, 94-96 

Shenandoah City . 7 4 

Shenandoah Collegiate Insti¬ 
tute .-.7 6 

Shenandoah Herald . 60 

Shenandoah River, .32-35 

Shenandoah Valley Academy 23 

Shepherd College . 14 

Shepherdstown . 13 

Sheridan and Early 

. 37, 47, 48, 52, 56 

Sheridan Paying Toll . 37 

Sheridan’s Headquarters .... 23 
Sheridan’s Ride .. 23, 29, 48-50 

Sidney Lanier . 3, 82 

Silver Lake .7 6 

Singer’s Glen . 77 

Skyland .5, 70 

Smithland . 71 

Snyder, H. L.14 

Soldier's Rest . 24 

Southern Railway . 92, 96 

South of the Massanutten.. 80 

South of Winchester . 36 

South River .33-35 

Sparkling Springs .7 8 

Spotswood, Alexander . 74 

Springdale . 38, 39 

Star Fort . 20, 21 

State Normal School .7 3 

Staunton . 83, 84 

Staunton Military Academy 83 

Steenbergen, William . 67 

Stephen, Adam . 15 

Stephens City . 26, 40 

Stoneleigh . 72 

Stonewall Brigade . 47, 68 

Stonewall Jackson 


37, 43-47, 66, 67, 70, 80, 87 


“Stonewall Jackson’s Way” 47 


Stover Town . 42 

Strasburg . 41, 54 

Strathmoor .67 

Streets ot Winchester . 18 

Streit, Christian . 19 

Stribling Springs .84 

Stuart Hall .83 

Summers and Koontz Monu¬ 
ment . 68 

“Surry of Eagle’s Nest” ....75 


Swift Run Gap . 74 

Taylor, Dick .43-45 

Taylor Hotel .18, 19 

Tenth Legion . 71 

Third Hill .4, 68 

“Thunderbolt of the Revolu¬ 
tion” .2, 16 

Tide Spring, .6 

Timberville . 71 

Toll Gates .30, 31 

Tom’s Brook .48, 57 

“Tubal Cain of Virginia,” .... 3 
Tuscarora Church . 15 


Valley Riflemen . 58 

Valley Turnpike . 11, 28-35 

Virginia School for Deaf and 

Blind . . 83, 84 

“Virginia John’” Lincoln ....78 
Virginia Military Institute 87 
V. M. I. Cadets .29, 69 


Wallace, William . 87 

Walnut Grove . 86 

Warm Springs . 11 

Washington and Lee Univer¬ 
sity . 87 


Washington’s Headquarters 
.2, 18 


Washington’s Office . 26 

Washington Profile . 77 

Washington, Surveyor .39 

Waterman, Asher . 7 2 

Waterman School .7 2 

Waynesboro . 85, 86 

Wayside Inn . 41 

Wayside Waters .32-35 

“West Point of the South” 1 

Weyer’s Cave _ 76, 89, 90 

White Post .25-27 

White Sulphur Inn . 40 

Willow Spout .81, 82 

Willow Spout Coffee House 82 

Winchester . 2, 17-24 

Woodrow Wilson Birthplace 83 
Woodson’s Missourians, 69, 70 

Woodstock .57-60 

Wright, H. G. ..49 


Zane’s Furnace 


55 

































































































VISIT THE 



CRYSTAL 

CAVERNS 

Nature’s under¬ 
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at Strasburg, Vir¬ 
ginia, located on the 
Valley Pike (New 
York-Atlanta High¬ 
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Admission 
75c tax paid 

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see. They ar - e the 
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brought to life. Doz¬ 
ens of interesting 
spectacles never out¬ 
done by the hand of 
man. 

Observation tow- 
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etc., on grounds. 


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The Best Department Store 


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Harrisonburg 

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Harrisonburg, Va. 

In the Heart of the Shenandoah Valley 
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For particulars apply to 

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WHEN YOU VISIT THE 

Grottoes of the 
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you see the largest UNDERGROUND 
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*• 

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Historical Works 

Relating to Shenandoah Valley and 

Environs 


Annals of Augusta County, Waddell Price $ 5.00 

Augusta County Records, Chalkley (3 Vols) 

Price 24.00 

Annals of Bath County, Morton Price 3.00 

History of Rockingham County, Wayland 

Price 3.50 

History of Rockbridge County, Morton Price 6.00 

History of Pendleton County, W. Va., Morton 

Price 3.50 

Shenandoah Valley Pioneers, Cartmell Price 8.00 


Following are out of print 
Prices quoted upon application 

History of the Valley, Kercheval 

German Element in the Shenandoah Valley, Wayland 

History of Augusta County, Peyton 

We are the largest dealers in VIRGINIANA in the 
state. Call to see us or write for catalog, 


Jos. K. Ruebush 
Company 

" 1 3 Dayton, Virginia 




















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